Laid out below is a copy of the Statistical Account of Scotland entry for Clackmannan parish, published in 1795.
The Statistical Account of Scotland – Volume 14, (1795)
Compiled by Sir John Sinclair
NUMBER XXXVII.
PARISH OF CLACKMANNAN
(COUNTY of CLACKMANNAN, Synod of Perth and Stirling, Presbytery of Stirling.)
By the Rev. Mr. Robert Moodie.
Name, Extent, and Surface.
CLACKMANNAN, signifies the Kirk Town, or village of Annan; from a well-known Gaelic word, and Annand, the original name of the family of Annandale. In the beginning of the 12th century, one of the first of the Bruces who settled in Scotland, married Agnes Annand, heir to the Lordship of Annandale; and soon after that period, the Bruces were in possession of Clackmannan: so that there is little doubt of this being the origin of the name. This parish is of a very irregular form. It extends from S. W. to N. E. nearly 6 miles, and about 5 miles from S. E. to N. W. At one place, however, it is not above 2 miles in breadth: and a district of about 1300 acres of it, on the N. W. side, is disjoined from the rest of the parish by a part of the parish of Alloa, of about 2 furlongs in breadth, which joins the parish of Tillicoultry. There are no hills in the parish: the ground, however, is very much varied; but none of it too steep as to interrupt the purposes of agriculture.
Villages.
Clackmannan is the head town of the county. It is beautifully situated on an eminence, gently rising out of a plain, from E. to W., to the height of 190 feet, above the level of the river Forth. On each side of the village, the ground has a gradual descent; but is more bold and rapid from the W. end, where the old tower of Clackmannan is placed. The scenery, beheld from this tower, is uncommonly picturesque and beautiful; and has been viewed with admiration by every traveller of taste. The whole country around forms, as it were, one grand amphitheatre, where all the objects are distinctly seen, yet not so near, as to disgust the eye. They are, at the same time, infinitely varied. Beyond the town of Stirling, 9 miles to the W., the high mountains of Ben-More, Ben-Lady, and Ben-Lomond, are seen at the distance of 20 miles, raising their romantick tops above the clouds. From the bold scenery of the town and castle of Stirling, and the high jutting, rugged rocks around it, the river Forth descends through a valley of several 1000 acres of the richest carse land; sometimes splitting asunder, and forming, here and there, small beautiful islands, which are always green. The fields, on every side of it, exhibit, in time of harvest, the most luxuriant, variegated, prospect, which the eye can behold. The various windings of the river are, at the same time, diversified in every possibility of serpentine form, that can add the most exquisite beauty to the surrounding scenery. It passes by the village of Clackmannan, it the distance of an English mile to the S., where it is a mile in breadth. Three miles below, it spreads out, and forms the appearance of an extensive inland lake, about 30 miles in circumference; having on its different sides, the villages, harbours, and numerous shipping of Kincardine, Borrostounness, and Grangemouth. Ships of various burdens are perpetually passing in full sail up and down the river; while its banks are adorned by the seats and wooded pleasure-grounds of the several nobleman and gentlemen; some of which are laid out with much elegance and taste.
On the N. Side of the village of Clackmannan, a small beautiful river issues from a deep glen, or hollow, shaded with large trees overhanging its banks; and, bending for a short space through a verdant plain, it enters again a thick wood, which reaches within 200 yards of the tower, and which the river disjoins from the wood of Alloa, and the extensive pleasure-grounds laid out by the late Earl of Mar: at the W. end of which, at the distance of 2 miles from Clackmannan, is situated the village and tower of Alloa, with the harbour and shipping.
The view towards the N. in bounded, at the distance of 4 miles, by the extensive range of the high Ochil mountains, intersected here and there by deep hollow glens; in one of which, on a kind of promontory, with a deep ravine on every side, stands the ruins of Castle Campbell, famous for being the original seat of the family of Argyll. These mountains are covered with perpetual verdure, and form a secure barrier against the violence of the northern blast. They not only add a high degree of beauty and grandeur to the surrounding scenery; they also suggest in the mind the idea of something more useful and more valuable, from the rich silver mines lately discovered in that part of them, commonly known by the name of the Alva Hills. From the W. to the S.E., the view from Clackmannan is terminated by the Campsie Hills, and the high grounds in the neighbourhood of Falkirk and Linlithgow. The intermediate country is all rich and diversified: a great part of it also is classick ground. Not far from the extensive Carron iron works, the Tor-wood, famous for the retreat of Sir William Wallace, appears in full view; at a small distance from which is seen the well-known field of Bannockburn, the pride of the Scotch warrior. The bleak and barren track of land, bounded by the Saline hills, to the E. and N. E., interspersed here and there with fresh water lakes, and some very thriving plantations, forms a striking contrast to the whole scene.
The village of Clackmannan itself, however, does by no means correspond with a situation so uncommonly beautiful. Its street is broad and regular enough; but many of the houses are wretched and mean. In the middle of the street, stands the tolbooth and court-house; a heap of ruins! and a nuisance to the publick. Here, however, the sheriff sometimes holds his courts *; the county fiars are annually struck here; and here the members of parliament for the county have been always elected.
The village is upon the estate of Clackmannan, and pays feu-duty to the proprietor of that estate. It contains 117 houses, 194 heads of families, and 639 souls; 281 of whom are male, and 358 female. It cannot be said to have any trade: the artificers which live in it are chiefly employed for the use of the surrounding country. **
There is also one other village in the parish, called Newtown Shaw, upon the estate of Lord Cathcart. It is increasing very rapidly; and from the extensive iron works lately begun by the Devon Company in its immediate neighbourhood, we may naturally expect that, in a short time, it will be in a very flourishing state. With such a certain prospect of success, however, it is astonishing to see, how little attention is paid to the form and regularity of its buildings.
* The counties of Clackmannan and Stirling have one sheriff-depute between them; and the most part of the business is transacted by two substitutes, who have only very small salaries allowed for their trouble. Most of the sheriff-substitutes in Scotland are in the same situation. Would it not be an object worthy of the attention of the legislature, to have this useful class of men placed on a more independent footing, by allowing them salaries more adequate to the importance of the trust committed to them? This could be done, either by a small tax on the fees of court, or in any other way that might be least oppressive to the country. The independence of our judges is one of the greatest blessings of the British Constitution. Before the heritable jurisdictions were abolished, the proprietors of the estate of Clackmannan were heritable sheriffs of this county.
**There are three bakers in the village, and eight grocers. or shopkeepers. It has always had a pretty good inn; but seldom has been without a dozen of tippling-houses: a circumstance not very favourable to the morals of the people. It has two fairs in the year; one in June, and. the other in September, called Bartholomew's Fair; where horses, black cattle, coarse linen and woollen cloth, and all kinds of hardware and haberdashery goods are exposed. Formerly, this last was a great market for wool brought from the fourth country: of late years, however, very small quantities of that article have been brought to it.
There is a tambouring school lately begun in the village, by some Glasgow manufacturers, in which about forty young girls are taught; but it is difficult as yet to say, whether it may have a good or a bad effect. The same company have likewise begun to teach a few boys to weave with the fly shuttle.
Climate and Diseases
The climate is, upon the whole, rather healthy than otherwise. Though, from its vicinity to the surrounding hills, it is exposed to frequent and heavy rains, and the air thereby rendered less salubrious; yet frequent instances of longevity are found among the inhabitants.
In 1791, one person died at the age of 95; at present, there is one man in the parish above 90, another 89, and several others near to that period. The small pox is the most frequent, and most fatal epidemical disorder. The young are subjected to its ravages every two or three years. In some years, it is more fatal than in others. In 1790, almost one half of the children, that were seized with it in the village of Clackmannan, died. This is not to be wondered at: Considering the bad treatment, it is rather astonishing how any escape. As soon as the infection has seized the child, he is put to bed; a large fire is kindled; he is smothered up in blankets, that he may not catch cold; while, to hasten the eruption, a mixture of warm milk and whisky is, from time to time, poured down his throat. Among many of the farmers, however, and better sort of the inhabitants, inoculation is become frequent, and is practiced with great success. Only two instances have occurred in the parish, during the last 14 years, of children dying, where this mode has been used; and even these two instances, it is said, were owing to the parents not attending to the directions of the surgeon. Yet, notwithstanding all this, the prejudice against inoculation is deeply rivetted in the minds of the great body of the people. They look upon it as a tempting of Providence; and would consider themselves as guilty of a species of murder, if the event should prove fatal. There have been some instances of children dying by the measles and hooping-cough; but these are not numerous*.
*In 1785, after a very hot summer, and a sudden fall of rain in the month of August, a dysentery made its appearance, and raged with such uncommon violence, that even in the small village of Clackmannan alone, upwards of twenty persons, almost all of them heads of families, fell victims to its direful influence. It was more fatal in the village than in the neighbourhood. This, perhaps, may have been owing to the little care that is taken to keep the streets clean. Before every door is a dung-hill, on which every species of nuisance is thrown, without the least regard to decency and cleanliness; so that the infection spreads with rapid progress.
In 1789, a nervous fever, with very ardent symptoms, proved fatal to several young men in the lower part of the parish. Since that time, it has appeared in other parts, but with much less violence; though, in some instances, protracted to a great length.
Lakes, Rivers, Tides, etc.
The river Forth forms the S. boundary of this parish. It is a mile in breadth, and of a depth sufficient for very large vessels. It has two pows or creeks in the parish; Clackmannan pow on the W. boundary, and that of Kennetpans towards the E., about a mile and a half distant from the other: both of which are in the district of the port of Alloa. The pow of Clackmannan is formed by the mouth of the river Black Devon. The mean depth of water at the usual shipping place, is 10 feet, and 20 feet at the mouth of the harbour. It was formerly crooked, and ran out a considerable way to the W., but was made straight, and deepened in 1772, by the proprietor, Sir Lawrence Dundas. The pow at Kennetpans, belonging to Mr. Bruce of Kennet, is much smaller than the other, but capable of being greatly enlarged. It has 17 feet of water at spring tides*. The tides in the river Forth, for several miles, both above and below Clackmannan, exhibit a phenomenon not to be Found (it is said) in any other part of the globe. This is what the sailors call a leaky tide, which happens always in good weather during the neap tides; and sometimes also during the spring tides, if the weather be uncommonly fine. When the water has flowed for 3 hours it then runs back for about an hour and a half, nearly as far as when it began to flow; it returns immediately, and flows during another hour and a half to the same height it was at before: and this change takes place both in the flood and ebb tides. So that there are actually double the number of tides in this river that are to be found any where else. In very boisterous weather, however, these leaky tides are by no means regular; the water only swells and gorges, without any perceptible current, as if the two tides were acting against each other. The cause of this singular phenomenon in the tides of the river Forth may be a subject of inquiry to the philosopher; for it has not as yet been discovered.
The river Devon forms the N. boundary of the parish. lt takes its rise in the Ochil Hills, and, running 10 miles directly eastward, it makes a turn to the W., at a place called the Crook of Devon. It passes the Rumbling Bridge and Cauldron Lin, where it forms a scenery, wild and beautiful, and romantick beyond all description. It then winds through a deep rich valley, till it falls into the river Forth, 4 miles to the W. of Clackmannan, and a very few miles only from the place where it takes its rise. In time of floods, owing to the high hills through which it passes, it comes down with a dreadful and irresistible rapidity; very frequently sweeping along with it fields of corn, and ricks of hay, and, at times, even bridges, and every thing that is in the way.
" All that the winds had spar'd
" In one wild moment ruin'd ; the big hopes
" And well-earn'd treasures of the painful year
" Roll mingled down." - Thomson.
In general, however, it is only a small river; large enough, at the same time, to become navigable, if its channel were properly cut. In 1776, a survey and estimate, made by Mr James Watt engineer, under the direction of the late Lord Cathcart, was given in to the Board of Police in Scotland, for the purpose of improving the internal commerce of this country, by cutting several navigable canals. Among other plans given in by Mr. Watt, that of making the Devon navigable for several miles was one. The estimate of the expence amounted only to about 2000L. pounds Sterling. Had this plan been carried into execution, a track of more than 10,000 acres of coal, at present entirely locked up from the sea sale, would have been exposed to the publick market; besides many other advantages of trade, that must have accrued in the neighbouring country. The extensive iron works now begun by the Devon Company, on the banks of this river, renders it highly probable, that the plan will still be executed; the advantage of water carriage being so much superior to that of land. The Devon abounds in trout, and salmon are sometimes caught in it, which come up from the river Forth, in time of spawning: a practice, however, very destructive to the fishery.
There is another river called Black Devon, which takes its rise in the saline hills; and, running W. through the middle of the parish, falls into the Forth at Clackmannan pow. In its course, it supplies with water two corn mills and a lint mill. Two water lades, or aqueducts, are also taken off from it; one of which drives an engine on the Clackmannan coal, and the other supplies a great reservoir which drives the engine on the Alloa coal. This reservoir goes by the name of Gartmorn Dam; but it is in fact a small beautiful lake, of 130 acres in extent, having a little island in the middle of it, and abounds with perch, some pike, and various kinds of trout. Part of it is in the parish of Alloa; but by far the greatest part is in the parish of Clackmannan. There is another small lake in the parish, called Tullygarth Dam, consisting of 45 acres in extent, where a few fish are sometimes to be found. In time of great drought also, the river B1ack Devon, at one place, forms the appearance of a small lake, by having its water collected together, for the supply of the mills and coal machinery.
* From many circumstances, it is highly probable, that the river was much broader at this place in former times, than it is at present. A village called Ferrytown, at the distance of five furlongs from the river, seems to have once stood on its banks. The intervening ground still goes by the name of Saltgrass, and is under the level of high Spring tides, which strong sea walls, or banks, prevent from overflowing it. One of these walls seems to have been built at a very early period: too slight and superficial, however, to resist violence of the tides, which frequently broke it down, and overflowed the land, till at length a reduction of the rent became absolutely necessary. By this time, the sediment of the river; which is a blue mud or soft clay, had again accumulated, and formed a considerable trak of fine rich land. In order, therefore, to secure the old saltgrass, as well as to make a new acquisition of 50 acres, Mr. Erskine of Mar, the proprietor (who has been so good as to furnish an account of several of these facts), in 1776, began a new bank or wall, much stronger than the former, and finished it in little more than six months. The length of the wall is 1380 yards: the height, 8 feet. It has a slope to the river of 2 1/2 feet for every foot of perpendicular height; and the side next the water was covered with soda, or turf, of one foot in thickness. The side next the land was sown with grass seeds, and has one foot of a slope for every foot of perpendicular height. There were 35,916 cubical yards of earth moved to form this wall, besides 915 yards for turf; making in whole 36,831 cubical yards, at 5d. the yard. The whole expence amounted to about 786L. Sterling. This, however, has not only effectually secured the old saltgrass land; it has also gained 50 acres of new land; which (deducting the repairs the old wall must have received) yielded, during the first seven years of a lease, an interest of four per cent. For the money laid out; and the remaining twelve years, an interest of 7 per cent. It will probably amount to 12 per cent. when the present lease expires, as the land is of the richest quality. A great error was committed by the tenant who got the lease of this this new land. Instead of allowing it to remain in grass for some years, it was immediately ploughed, and thereby prevented from consolidating in a proper manner. The consequence was, it remained much longer in a wet state than arable land ought to do.
This error was avoided, when, several years afterwards, another track of land, adjoining to the above, was in the same manner gained from the river, to the estate of Lord Dundas. It was pastured upwards of seven years; and the good effects now appear: it produces the most luxuriant crops. The expence attending this acquisition did not exceed one-third part of the former. Besides, a part of the wall enclosing it is so constructed, that a waggon road is formed on the top of it, for the purpose of carrying coals to such vessels as are too large for going up the pow of Clackmannan to the usual shipping place. There is another track of land formed by the river in the same manner as the above, to the E. of the harbour of Kennetpans, belonging to Mr. Bruce of Kennet, and which that gentleman also proposes to embank.
Such undertakings, when properly conducted, are attended with many advantages: that not only add to the extent and value of estates, but they also contribute very much to the safety of the navigation, by contracting the river, and thereby clearing and deepening its channel.
There was formerly a salmon fishing on the river Forth at this place; but it has been discontinued for fifteen years. Previous to that period, the salmon was commonly sold here at 1d. The pound. There are always a few cruives placed in the river, in which a variety of small fish are now and then caught; but these seldom turn to much account.
Heritors and State of Property.
The principal heritors, according to their valued rent, are, Lord Dundas, Mr. Erskine of Mar, Mr. Bruce of Kennet, Lord Cathcart, Mr. Abercromby of Brucefield *, and Lord Alva, one of the Judges of the Court of Session; besides a considerable number of smaller heritors and feuars. It is a singular circumstance, that the estates, in this parish, of all these gentlemen just mentioned (one only excepted), form but a small part of their landed property. They all possess estates in other parishes; and the consequence is, only two of them have their residence here. The estate of Clackmannan, belonging to Lord Dundas, is strictly entailed, as well as the estate belonging to Mr. Erskine of Mar. The house upon the estate of Clackmannan is almost a ruin, and not fit to be inhabited; the proprietor, however, it is said, intends to take the advantage of so delightful a situation, and to build a house suited to it, near to the site of the old tower. From the seat of the family of Mar being at Alloa, in the immediate neibourhood , there never was a house upon their estate in this parish. The house upon the estate of Sauchy is placed at the distance of about 60 yards within the parish of Alloa; but the greatest part of the pleasure-grounds, and even part of the garden, are in the parish of Clackmannan. The pleasure-grounds are laid out and beautified with much taste and judgment. A great part of these grounds, when in the possession of Sir John Shaw, once formed a deer park, constituting of 100 acres, and surrounded by a very high wall. The only house in the parish, that deserves the name of elegant, is just now finished by Mr. Bruce of Kennet, from a beautiful design of Mr. Harrison of Lancaster. Placed in one of the finest situations the country affords, it is also built in a style of superior elegance to most of the houses to be met with in Scotland; and exhibits in all its parts an equal attention to convenience and utility, as it does to elegance and taste.
* The fee of this estate belongs to Mr. Abercromby's second surviving son, Major-General Sir Robert Abercromby, late Governor of Bombay, and at present, Commander in Chief of his Majesty's forces in India.
Soil, Acres, Rent etc.
The parish of Clackmannan consists of 7132 acres; 166 of which are natural wood, and 538 new plantations, all in a thriving state, and some of them nearly ready for cutting. There are upwards of 20 acres of moss in the parish, and 70 acres of land from which the moss has been removed, now under pasture and hay. A cold clay soil, with a wet bottom, predominates over a very great part of the parish; some of it so poor indeed as not to be worth the labouring. A few spots however of a light dry soil, and even a rich black loam, with a fine bottom, are to be found here and there. Part of the land in the neibourhood of the village is of this quality; and accordingly the rent of it is proportionably high. But the richest and largest track of land lies on the banks of the river Forth, consisting of 100 acres of excellent carse soil, all very fertile. From this, it will easily appear, that the rent of the land must be very much varied, according to its quality; rising from almost nothing, to 43s the acre. The real rent of the parish is 4700 L Sterling, and is approaching towrds 5000 L., as the present leases expire. The valued rent is 9155L. 17s. 4d. Scotch; which probably was the real rent at the time of the valuation.
State of Agriculture, etc.
The agriculture of this parish has undergone a very great change during these last 15 years. Many of the farms have been greatly enlarged*, which has enabled the tenant to adopt every new improvement. The success of one has induced others to follow the example: and at this time, almost all the farmers in the parish, small as well as great, practice the most improved mode.
They have laid aside those restraints by which deep-rooted prejudice, in favour of use and wont, had so long fettered their forefathers. Instead of the mode formerly followed, of a continued rotation of beans, barley, and oats, on the best lands, that of summer fallow, wheat, beans, barley, grass, and oats, is now universally adopted; while the lands of inferior quality have crops suited to their soil. The soil in general is not favourable for turnips; yet where it is favourable, these have been sown, and with success. The most part of the wet lands have been drained, and the ridges made straight**, and thrown into a proper size. Two horse ploughs, of Small's construction, are used all over the parish.
But the most material circumstance, in favour of the agriculture of this parish, is a spirit of emulation that was, with much propriety, raised amongst the ploughmen themselves. About 10 years ago, a number of gentlemen in this neighbourhood formed themselves into a society, under the name of the Clackmannanshire Farmer Club, for promoting the purposes of agriculture. One of their first steps was to institute ploughing matches among the servants, in which honours and rewards were bestowed upon the best workmen. From 40 to 50 candidates have often started upon these occasions. *** The first prize has been always a silver medal ****; and three or four pecuniary rewards are given to the next best, according to their merit. Nothing of this kind had been hitherto known in Scotland; but the example has been followed in many parts of the country, and with much success.
Beans are sown here as soon in the month of February as the weather permits; oats immediately after, and barley from the 20th of April to the 20th of May: wheat is sown from the 15th of September to the end of October, and sometimes during the two following months; though it seldom turns out well after the middle of November.
Harvest commences about the middle of August, and sometimes continues to the end of October. The average produce on the best lands, when the mode above mentioned is followed, may be computed at 10 bolls of wheat from the acre, 7 of beans, 7 of barley, and 8 of oats *****, and 300 stone of hay, Dutch weight. There have been instances, however, of much greater increase, particularly of wheat and oats, even to the extent of 15 bolls the acre. But these are very rare: for when at any time the crop is uncommonly luxuriant, it is generally lodged by the heavy rains, which are frequent here in the month of August, and thereby rendered of little value. The average produce of the whole crop of 1792, even from the best lands, did not exceed 4 bolls the acre. The consequence was, that hardly any of the tenants were able to pay, from this crop, above a third part of their rent; while some had not as much as defrayed the expences of feed and labour. In this state of real distress to the small tenants, some of the proprietors, with much humanity, made a reduction of the rent, for that year, to some of their tenants, and lengthened out the term of payment to others ******.
*At present, there are about forty farms fewer in the parish than were about twenty years ago. Some of the farmers now possess farms to the extent of 7000 acres; besides having what are called led farms, in the adjoining parishes, to a very great extent. From this, it may be the opinion of some persons, that several of the farms in this parish are too large, while others are undoubtedly too small.
** The carse lands excepted: The ridges are, in general, crooked, and when made straight, take a long time (say the farmers, though with very little justice), to be formed into a proper soil.
*** In 1790, the minister of Clackmannan had his glebe and farm ploughed in one day by forty-nine two horse ploughs: The greatest number ever known to start at once in this country.
****Alexander Vertue, at that time a servant to a farmer in the parish of Clackmannan, gained the first prize of the ploughing matches. In summer 1793, he was sent for to his Majesty's farm at Windsor, where it was expected he was to continue. He carried a plough with him from Scotland, and began his work in presence of his majesty, and a number of noblemen and gentlemen. It was acknowledged, that land so well ploughed had never been seen in that country. Next morning, however, instead of going to his work, as he was desired the preceding evening, he was told, "Not to go near the King's farm at Windsor, on any account whatever, nor to have the smallest intercourse with any of his Majesty's farm servants." After receiving a reward for his trouble, he left his plough, by special desire, and returned to Scotland. It is difficult to conceive, how, in this instance, the jealousy of the English ploughmen prevented the salutary effects intended by this instructor.
***** Stirlingshire firlot is used here for oats and barley; Linlithgow for wheat; and a firlot for beans and pease, about a peck in the boll larger? Than the Linlithgow wheat firlot.
******* The farmers here have some advantages, and some disadvantages, which perhaps are not peculiar to them. Thirlage is fortunately abolished over the greatest part of the parish; but where it is not, it is still a cause of much complaint, and of real loss to the farmer. It is, indeed, a curse of an unknown magnitude; and it is astonishing how proprietors of land, who have it in their power, do not see their own interest in putting an end to it altogether. Where it does exist, nearly a tenth boll is paid for grinding the corn. Yet, notwithstanding this, there is not a farmer who would not willingly make a reasonable allowance for the mill rent. What loss then can proprietors sustain? Let them think for a moment; let them consider the hardships to which they expose the very persons, whom it is in their interest as well as duty to encourage and protect. A small farmer (we shall suppose), who pays the highest demand for his little spot (and must pay it), toils and labours, with unremitting attention, to make it produce what is sufficient to support his family, and to answer the term day of his landlord. He is surely entitled to bring the produce of his labour to the best market. Instead of this, he dare not sell one boll of oats, without being subjected to a penalty. He must take them all to the mill, and intrust them, for days and nights, to the care of persons, in whom he very often can place no confidence: while at the same time, he exposes them to be destroyed by the numerous swarms of vermin which usually frequent these places. His family suffers: his landlord must also suffer. This is a real grievance, and ought to be redressed. There is a mill in this parish, which goes by the name of the Thieves Mill.
The invention of threshing mills will, in all probability, soon prove useful to agriculture. The first of these was erected at Kilbagie, in this parish, by Mr. George Meikle, engineer. It is driven by water and threshes eight or ten bolls in an hour. It is undoubtedly one of the greatest improvements in husbandry and promises to be of general utility. Threshing mills are now used in many parts, both of Scotland and England; and commissions for them, it is said, have arrived from some of the northern kingdoms of Europe. They are now made of various sizes; so that farmers in this place, who possess no more than thirty acres of land, find it in their interest to use them. There are already nine of them in this parish; two of which are driven by water; and some of them by two, and some by four horses, according to their size. Their price is from 25L. To 60 L. Sterling.
The great advantage to be derived from threshing mills is, that, besides threshing much cleaner than by the usual mode, they give the farmer a command of the market, to which he can bring, upon any emergency, a great part of his crop, at the shortest notice.
Price of Labour.
The best men servants get 8L. Sterling yearly, 6 1/2 bolls of oat meal, and 1L. 6s. Sterling, for what is called kitchen-money, besides a house and yard, if they are married: women servants get 3L yearly: day labourers get ls. a-day, and 1s. 2d. In harvest: women reapers get 1s. In harvest, and a glass of whisky in the morning; a very bad practice, and which frequently leads them on to habits of drinking whisky during all their lives. Masons get 1s. 8d. a-day, and wrights 1s. 6d.
Collieries.
There are 3 collieries in the parish, Clackmannan, Sauchy, and Kennet. Clackmannan coal consists of 4 seams, known by the names of main coal, 9 feet thick; cherry coal, 2 feet l0 inches; splint coal, 2 feet 8 inches; and coal Mozey, 2 feet 3 inches. The main coal was wrought in the last century and terminated about the year 1763. The cherry and splint seams began to be wrought about 30 years ago, and are working at the present time. The coal Mozey seam is also working at present: it was begun in 1792; previous to that period, it could not be wrought to any advantage. In thin coal work, the method called the long way, is now introduced; that is, no part of the coal is left for pillars, but the whole taken out, which saves a great part of the coal. In some of the pits, the coal is brought to the top by women and boys; and in others, by means of machinery. The coal is kept dry by means of an engine driven by water, which is much less expensive than a fire engine. The price of coal varies according to the demand. In general, the price of great coal upon the hill is 5s. the ton; of chows, 4s. About 7000 tons are annually exported to Leith, Dunbar, Perth, Dundee, Montrose, and other places. These are taken to the harbour in waggons of a ton and a half: the mean distance from the pits being about three quarters of a mile*.
The working of the Sauchy coal is of a very old date. It is kept dry by a very powerful fire engine. It consists of 4 seams: the first, or uppermost, in 3 feet thick; the second is 5 feet; but this one has no roof, so that it has never been wrought: the third is 5 feet, and is an excellent coal: the fourth is 9 feet: This last, however, is 16 fathoms below the bottom of the present engine pit, which is 47 fathoms deep. Previous to this period, a great part of the Sauchy coal has been exported; but as it is now in the possession of the Devon Company, it is highly probable, that the most of it will be used for their iron work. The Kennet coal consists of two seams one of 30 inches thick; and another of 36. It was given up in 1726, and began again to be wrought in 1759. It has at present a small fire engine; but it is probable, it was once level free, as there is no trace remaining of any engine being upon it when it was first wrought. The distilleries in the parish consume a great part of this coal. It produces yearly about 6000 tons of great coal, besides a considerable quantity of chows. After the year 1788, when the distilleries were stopped, about 2000 tons were yearly shipped for Leith. It has also a very extensive land sale**.
*A collier, with his wife and daughter, earns 12s. in five days, which is all the time he works in the week. Besides this, he has his meal from the proprietor at 5 1/3d. The peck; a free house and yard, and other bounties, to the amount of 30s. yearly.
**During Cromwell's usurpation, when the English ports were shut up by the Dutch, one of the above coal works was let to a Mr. Marjoribanks, a merchant in Edinburgh, at the yearly sum of 1666L. 13s. 4d. Sterling. Formerly there were salt pans in this parish, both at Kennetpans and at Clackmannan pow, owing perhaps to the coal being so readily procured; but these have been discontinued for a number of years. The water at this place, indeed, does not appear to be salt enough for that purpose.
Distilleries.
The two great distilleries of Kilbagie and Kennetpans are both in the parish of Clackmannan; and, previous to the year 1788; the manufacture of Scotch spirits was carried on at them to an extent hitherto unknown in this part of the island of Great Britain. The distillery laws have undergone various changes in Scotland. Before the year 1784, the duty was levied by a presumptive charge upon the wash (that is, fermented worts), taking it for granted, that the wash would produce one-fourth part in low wines, and that these low wines would produce three-fifth parts in spirits: hence, 1000 gallons of wash was supposed to yield 15 gallons of spirits, and duty was charged accordingly; but instead of 15, 20 gallons of spirits were often drawn from the 100 of wash. In Scotland, the surplus above 15 gallons was uniformly seized, as spirits presumed to be fraudulently obtained; while in England the distiller was allowed the full exercise of his genius, and got permits for the removal of his actual produce. At this period, the quantum of duty on a gallon of spirits was more than double what it has ever been since. But the high rate of duty afforded such temptation to smuggling, that the consumption of spirits in Scotland was chiefly supplied by the manufacture of illegal stills, and by smuggling from abroad. Great distillers could not smuggle; and being continually subjected to the surveys of the excise, the two distilleries of Kilbagie and Kennetpans depended entirely on the London market for the sale of their produce ; where, previous to the year 1784, they carried on an advantageous trade: though the duty on a gallon of spirits in England was 13 2/3 pence higher than in Scotland; and though they had, at shipping their spirits for England, to pay down this difference on every gallon shipped. In 1784, a law was passed, rendering the duties, and mode of levying them, the same both in Scotland as in England; and at the same time reducing the rate of duty each gallon about one half of what it had been formerly; while it allowed the manufacturer a credit for 20 gallons of spirits from the 100 gallons of wash, and granted permits accordingly. The London distillers expected, that by this equalization plan, the Scotch could not continue their trade to London, and pay the duties in the same manner with themselves. But in this they were mistaken; for the trade increased. And it is the opinion of the best-informed distillers, that the London distillers are not a match for the Scotch under an equal law. This mode was continued till July 1786, when the license act took place, imposing 30s. a gallon yearly on the contents of every still used for distillation in Scotland; continuing the last plan with respect to England (where the duty amounted to 2s. 6d. for the gallon of spirits), and imposing an additional duty of 2s. on the gallon of spirits sent from Scotland to England: which additional duty was to be paid in London, on the arrival of the spirits in the river Thames.
This act was passed as an experiment and was to continue for two years. Under it, the London distillers expected, that the Scotch could not continue the trade to London. This trade, however, still continued to increase; which increased also the astonishment of the London traders, who gave in a representation to the treasury upon the subject. In consequence of which, and upwards of six months previous to the natural expiration of the law, another law was passed, imposing a duty of 6d. a gallon on all Scotch spirits sent to England, in addition to the former 2s.; while the duty on spirits manufactured in England was allowed to remain at the 2s. 6d. When this act was passed, the Scotch distilleries stopped payment. The law continued in this way till July 1788, when the license duty in Scotland was doubled, and made 3L. a gallon, on the contents of the still; and at the same time laying the trader under such restrictions, when he worked for England, as to amount to a prohibition against his entering that market. And in July 1793, the license has been raised to 9L. Sterling a gallon yearly. Previous to the year 1788, the quantity of corn used annually at the distillery of Kilbagie alone, amounted to above 60,000 bolls, and the annual quantity of spirits made, to above 3000 tons. The black cattle fed annually were about 7000; swine 2000. The cattle were sold to butchers, who drove them to the Edinburgh and Glasgow markets: the swine were killed and cured into bacon and pork for England. The work people employed were nearly 300. The distillery and utensils cost. upwards of 40,000L. Sterling; and when sold by the trustee for the creditors of the former proprietor, yielded about 7000L. Sterling.
No situation could have been more eligible for a distillery than Kilbagie; and it was erected in the most substantial manner. The buildings occupy a space of above 4 acres of ground; all surrounded by a high wall. The barns for malting are of a prodigious size, and are 4 stories in height. A small rivulet runs through the middle of the works, and drives a threshing mill, and all the grinding mills necessary for the distillery; besides supplying with water a canal, which communicates with the river Forth, of about a mile in length, cut for the purpose of conveying both the imports and exports of the distillery.
The distillery at Kennetpans, which in advantageously situated on the very banks of the river Forth, was in portion to that of Kilbagie, as three to five. And before these two distilleries were stopped, they paid to government an excise duty considerably greater than the whole land tax of Scotland. At present, the duty paid by both is about 8000L.Sterling yearly. There is an engine, of Bolton and Watt's construction, at the distillery of Kennetpans; being the first of the kind that was erected in Scotland.
Iron Works.
The extensive and valuable seams of coal and lime-stone on the estate of Sauchy, belonging to Lord Cathcart, induced some gentlemen, under the firm of Devon Company, to establish iron works of considerable extent. These consist at present of two blast furnaces, and are situated on the banks of the river Devon, near to the old tower of Sauchy. The situation, and singular construction of the Devon iron works, begun in July 1792, merit the attention of the curious in mechanicks and architecture. A steep bank rises more than 30 feet above the level of the river, and is composed of rock, or very thick stratum of free-stone, very dry and uniform in its texture, and almost free from cracks and fissures. Instead of the usual method of building with stone and lime, the several parts of the works have been formed in the bank, by excavations made in the rock. Two furnaces, which, are each above 40 feet high, and 14 feet diameter, and also the spacious arches which give access to the workmen, at the bottom of the furnace, to draw off the liquid metal and slag, are cut out of the rock, The roof which covers the Casting house, a room 70 feet long, 50 feet wide, and 23 feet high, is supported by the sides of the quarry, and the solid pillars of the rock that were left for this purpose in making the excavation. In like manner, is formed the engine house, and its apparatus, which is intended to supply the two furnaces with wind, by throwing at each vibration of the engine a sufficient quantity of air, out of a large cylinder, into a long gallery or close mine, formed in the rock. This magazine of wind will contain above 10,000 cubic feet of air, much condensed by the power of the engine, as the gallery is very closely shut up, and made air-tight; having only two apertures, one to receive the supply of air from the air pump, and the other to admit a pipe that conducts the condensed air to blow the two furnaces.
The Devon iron works are within 3 English miles of the port and harbour of Alloa, where the produce and manufactures of these works are intended to be shipped; and from which, by a retour carriage, the proprietors can easily bring any supplies of iron-stone, iron-ores, lime-stone, timber, or any other materials that may be necessary*.
*This undertaking must already have cost a large sum of money, although as yet only in its infant state: but the advantages that must result from it to every class of people, and to the landholders of this county in particular, give great cause to wish for its extension and prosperity. The situation has many peculiar advantages. The whole country around it abounds in coal, as well as in strata of iron-stone; and a vein of rich kidney iron ore, 18 inches thick, has been found in one of the neibouring hills. There is also a very fine lime-stone rock, within a few miles of it, lately discovered in the Menstrie hills, belonging to Major General Abercromby of Tullibody. So that when we add to all these advantages, the practicability of cutting a navigable canal to join the river Forth, we may reasonably expect that this undertaking will prove successful.
Population Table for 1791.
Number of souls *, 25288
Males, 1205
Females, 1323
Souls under 10, 633
From 10 to 20, 484
From 20 to 50, 1000
From 50 to 70, 360
From 70 to 100, 51
Heads of families, 681
Of whom are
Married, 460
Bachelors 39
Widowers, 33
Widows, 100
Established Church, 391
Antiburghers, 51
Burghers, 59
Relief, 180
Houses, 511
Men servants in their own houses, 49
Ditto in families, 121
Women servants, 79
Farmers, 51
Colliers, who are heads of families, 116
Bakers, 4
Tailors, 11
shoemakers, 12
Wrights, 23
Masons, 10
Smiths, 15
Weavers, 23
Butchers, 7
Millers, 2
Day labourers, 114.
Glazier, l
Distillers, 2
Ale and whisky sellers, 23
Carters, 10
Gardeners, 10
Coopers, 2
Cadgers, 2
Coal Greives, 3
Miners, 6
Sailors, 7
Tide Waiter, 1
Grocers or shopkeepers, 12
Horses, 412
Black cattle, 394
Ploughs, 100
Carts, 192
Four wheeled Carriages, viz -
A coach and two chaises, 3
Pigeon houses, 6
Table of Marriages, Births, and Burials for 21 years
| Years | Proclamations | Marriages in parish | Inter marriages with other parishes* | Births | Burials |
| 1773 | 16 | 12 | 4 | 67 | 33 |
| 1774 | 10 | 8 | 2 | 69 | 57 |
| 1775 | 20 | 16 | 4 | 60 | 45 |
| 1776 | 21 | 16 | 5 | 81 | 47 |
| 1777 | 24 | 17 | 7 | 68 | 81 |
| 1778 | 29 | 17 | 12 | 94 | 40 |
| 1779 | 23 | 15 | 8 | 77 | 26 |
| 1780 | 35 | 25 | 10 | 90 | 81 |
| 1781 | 27 | 21 | 6 | 92 | 64 |
| 1782 | 33 | 19 | 14 | 78 | 62 |
| 1783 | 21 | 15 | 6 | 90 | 90 |
| 1784 | 28 | 21 | 7 | 86 | 55 |
| 1785 | 29 | 22 | 7 | 94 | 66 |
| 1786 | 43 | 34 | 9 | 76 | 54 |
| 1787 | 47 | 39 | 8 | 81 | 89 |
| 1788 | 34 | 29 | 5 | 82 | 39 |
| 1789 | 26 | 17 | 9 | 77 | 31 |
| 1790 | 25 | 22 | 3 | 69 | 76 |
| 1791 | 20 | 20 | 0 | 73 | 82 |
| 1792 | 27 | 18 | 9 | 73 | 53 |
| 1793 | 19 | 13 | 6 | 65 | 65 |
| Total | 557 | 416 | 141 | 1642 | 1236 |
| Average | 27 | 20 | 7 | 78 | 59 |
*In the year 1755, the number of souls in the parish of Clackmannan was, according to Dr. Webster's report, 1913: so that there is an increase since that period of 615. This may be easily accounted for, from the number of people who, for many years, crowded to this place, in order to be employed at the distilleries. It is probable, that the number of colliers has also increased; of these, there are in the present list 605 souls. Previous to the year 1788, the numbers in the parish were much greater than in 1791; for when the distilleries gave over working, a great many families left the parish. These are now (1794) returning, and many more may be expected; both on account of the distilleries, which are again reviving, and the Devon iron work. So that in a few years, it is highly probable, that the population of this parish will be much greater than it is at present.
**where the women only have left the parish.
Poor.
The funds for the support of the poor arise from the interest of 250L Sterling, from the weekly collections at the church door, from fines on account of misdemeanours, and from a general voluntary subscription by the heritors, whether resident, or non-resident, and all the inhabitants in the parish. The heritors and kirk-session, about 20 years ago, formed themselves into a committee, which meets monthly, for the management of these funds. Into this committee are chosen, from time to time, such of the other inhabitants of the parish as are best acquainted with the state of the poor in their immediate neighbourhood*.
Subjoined is a table, showing the number of monthly pensioners in the parish of Clackmannan for 17 years prior to 1794, together with an exact account of the money received for the maintenance of the poor. But besides the regular pensioners, needy persons, from time to time, receive extraordinary supplies. These are not marked in the following table; but the surplus will show the sum allotted to them.
* A clerk and treasurer receives a proper allowance yearly out of the funds for keeping the books, and paying the money to the poor. These receive charity in proportion to their wants; in general, from 2s to 6s monthly, according as they are able to work less or more. If, at any time, they are in distress, without having any person to attend them, a keeper is appointed to this office, and is paid out of the funds. None of the poor are allowed to beg; which seems to be a severe restraint on some of the idle ones.
Before they are admitted upon the monthly roll, they are also obliged to give to the treasurer an inventory of their effects, which, at their death, are disposed for the benefit of the fund, provided they have no children in need of them.
| Years | Number of Pensioners | Yearly Income |
| 1777 | 13 | L.100 1 1 3/4 |
| 1778 | 40 | L. 89 7 6 3/4 |
| 1779 | 43 | L. 102 14 7 1/2 |
| 1780 | 42 | L. 113 16 6 |
| 1781 | 44 | L. 138 18 6 3/4 |
| 1782 | 48 | L. 108 10 0 1/2 |
| 1783 | 57 | L. 118 11 7 1/4 |
| 1784 | 57 | L. 140 11 11 1/4 |
| 1785 | 51 | L. 116 14 2 |
| 1786 | 43 | L. 143 5 10 1/4 |
| 1787 | 46 | L. 155 7 5 |
| 1788 | 42 | L. 178 18 7 1/2 |
| 1789 | 43 | L. 188 18 1 1/2 |
| 1790 | 42 | L. 110 16 9 1/4 |
| 1791 | 43 | L. 109 1 11 1/4 |
| 1792 | 38 | L. 126 0 8 1/4 |
| 1793 | 41 | L. 134 7 8 1/4 |
| Total | 733 | L. 2155 3 3 3/4 |
| Average | 43 | L. 126 15 0 |
School.
The parish schoolmaster's salary is 200 merks. About 2 years ago, the heritors voluntarily agreed to double this sum during the life of the present incumbent: so that this doubled salary, together with the other emoluments, make his income about 40L. Sterling a-year, exclusive of the school wages and a good house and garden. Besides the parochial school, there are 5 other schools established in different parts of the parish, which are remote from the village of Clackmannan*. Each of the 3 collieries has one of these. Sometimes, indeed, there are even schoolmasters, paid by subscription, according to the distance which such inhabitants are from the parish school, who are able to bear this expense. At present, one of these subscription schoolmasters receives upwards of 50L. A-year; so that the whole yearly income of the different schoolmasters in this parish must amount to more than 170L. Sterling.
*Michael Bruce taught one of these schools – Michael Bruce, the ingenious poet of Kinrossshire, whose premature death is so pathetically, and so justly lamented, by the elegant Author of the Mirror (No. 36). A very short time before his death, he taught the small school of Forestmill, worth only about 12L. Sterling a-year; and it was the highest preferment to which he attained. Yet, in this obscure retreat, in the bleakest corner of the parish, living in a wretched hovel, and struggling under all the hardships of poverty, he wrote LOCHLEVEN, one of the finest descriptive poems in the English language.
The following are extracts taken from his holograph letters still extant, and in the possession of the Reverend Dr. Baird, Principal of the University of Edinburgh; and they are put in this fact beyond a doubt. -- "I have wrote a few lines of a descriptive poem, Cui titalus of Lochleven. You may remember you hinted such a thing to me; so I have set about it, and you may expect a dedication. I hope it will soon be finished, as I, every week, add two lines, blot out, fix, and alter eight. You shall hear the plan when I know it myself. Farewell. I am, your's. etc. Michael Bruce."
Forrest Mill, July 28, 1766.
To Mr. David Arnot of Portmoag.
And, in another letter to the same person, he gives an account of a visit to the island of LochLeven, and exclaims bitterly against the men who conveyed him thither, for not allowing him more time to examine the antiquities. "They," says he, "who consider it in no other view than as capable of feeding a dozen or fourteen cattle, when their work was over, would not stay a minute longer, had it been to discover the great toe of St. Morag, who is buried there. My description of it, in the poem LochLeven (which, by the bye, is now finished) runs thus---- I am, etc. Michael Bruce."
Forrest Mill December 1, 1766
A second edition of Michael Bruce's poems is now in the press.
Church, etc.
The church is an old mean structure, in the form of a cross, evidently built at different periods, and now in a very ruinous state. The manse was built about the year 1740. It is beautifully situated on the S. Side of the ridge on which the village stands and commands a most delightful view of the whole country along the banks of the river Forth. Lord Dundas is patron. The stipend consists of 24 bolls of barley, 24 bolls of meal, 16 bolls of oats, and 50L. Sterling in money, exclusive of 40L. Scotch for communion elements, and 20L. Scotch for grass mail; with a glebe of about 4 acres of good land, and what is called craig leave coal, that is, free coal, except paying the collier, which is about one-third part of the value*.
The records of the kirk-session commence in the year 1593, and are almost entire from that period.
Though there are a variety of sectaries in the parish, only one of them (the Relief) has a meeting-house in it; the rest go to meeting-houses in the adjoining parishes.
*Since this account was written, the Court of .cinds (on this date, November 19, 1794.) have granted an augmentation of four chalders of victual, one half in meal, and the other in barley; besides an addition of 5L. Sterling to the communion element money.
Antiquities.
Clackmannan has, for many generations, been the seat of the chief of the Bruces in Scotland. It is not certain, however, at what precise period John de Bruce, third son of Robert, one of the Earls of Annandale, became proprietor of it. King David II gave it to his kinsman, Robert Bruce, the first laird of Clackmannan. (Dilecto consanguineo, saith the charter, dated at Perth the 9th of December, a regni 39), which must have been a very short time only before his death. It is probable, indeed, that King David resided at Clackmannan, at least, during the first part of his reign; since we find, that, in the year 1330, his chamberlain, Reginald Moore, settled his publick accounts there*.
The old tower, which still remains, is said to have been built by King Robert Bruce. From the style of the building, indeed, (for there is no date upon it), appears to have been erected about his time; and , from several names of places, we may conclude, that it was actually the residence of some of the kings; as the following names seem to indicate; King's seat hill, King's meadow park, and others of a similar nature, in the vicinity of the tower.
The great height of the tower is 79 feet. It contains a variety of apartments, and has been surrounded by a moat, with a draw-bridge, part of which still remains. Adjoining the tower, stands the old mansion, the residence of the family, till the direct line became extinct. Both the tower and house, however, are fast crumbling into ruins, and exhibit a sad spectacle of human grandeur.
Though said to have once been once the abode of kings, and, for many ages, the chief residence of one of the most ancient families in the kingdom, yet they now afford only a very comfortable dwelling to a common ploughman.
Henry Bruce. Esq., the last laird of Clackmannan, died in 1772; and in him ended the direct line of that ancient family. His widow, Katharine Bruce, survived him till November 1791, when she died, by means of an accidental fall, at the great age of 95**.
She had in her possession an immensely large sword, with a helmet, said to have been used by King Robert Bruce at the battle of Bannockburn; both of which she bequeathed as a legacy to the Earl of Elgin. The direct male line of the family of Bruce being extinct, a dispute is now keenly agitated by two claimants for the chiefship, the Earl of Elgin and Alexander Bruce, Esq., of Kennet; but unless some farther evidence be adduced, than what has yet appeared, it is not probable, that it will soon be terminated in favour of either of the parties. It is astonishing, therefore, how Mr. Astle, in his late publication, "On the Seals of the Kings of Scotland," etc. Should, without hesitation, and without showing any good evidence, have assigned the chiefship to the Earl of Elgin.
A tree of the family of the Bruces, from their first arrival in Britain, is in the possession of that nobleman, left to him as a legacy by the late lady of Clackmannan; a copy of which also is in the possession of Lord Dundas. It is dated 1686; but upon what grounds its authenticity depends, it has not yet been shown. This, however, must be judged of, in a great measure, according as the facts related in it agree or disagree with the general tenor of history. If this tree shall be pronounced authentic, it evidently makes Mr Bruce of Kennet the chief of the Bruces; since, according to it, he is descended from Sir Robert Bruce, the eighth laird of Clackmannan, being three generations later than the Earl of Elgin, who is descended from Sir David Bruce, the fifth laird of Clackmannan, according to this tree. On the margin of the tree is a narrative, giving an account of the family of the Bruces***.
Mr. Bruce of Kennet has also a claim to the attainted title of Lord Burleigh. His Grandmother, by the father's side, was Mary Balfour, the youngest daughter of the fourth Lord Burleigh; whose only son Robert killed a man in 1707, and was condemned to die, but escaped from prison previous to the day of his execution. He was concealed for some years, and after his father's death, joined in the rebellion of 1715; in consequence of which, the title was attainted. The question, therefore is, whether this Robert was to be considered as dead in law, upon his being condemned (which was before his father died), so that no after deed of his could affect the title as to the next heir? If this be the case, as the title is said to be to heirs whatsoever, Mr. Bruce of Kennet must have a just claim to the title of Burleigh, by virtue of his grandmother's right, as the other was never married. There is another old tower situated on the banks of the Devon, belonging to Lord Cathcart. It has been for many years in the possession of the family, and is still more entire than the tower of Clackmannan. There was also one of the same kind at a place called Hart-Shaw, which belonged originally to the Stewarts of Rosyth; from which family Oliver Cromwell, by female line, is said to have descended. It was probably the hunting seat of that family, as the name denotes. Very few vestiges, However, of this tower, except the coat of arms, are now remaining. The proprietor, it seems, in the beginning of this century, pulled it down, for the purpose of building a mill, and some farm houses.
*see "accounts of the chamberlain of Scotland, in the years 1329, 1330, and 1331, from the originals in the Exchequer," published by Mr. John Davidson in 1771.
** The memory of this lady will ever be revered by all who knew her. She was one of those rare characters, which at times on earth as the ornaments of her nature. To all the high sentiments of a dignified and enlightened mind, she added those amiable virtues of the heart, which render their influence irresistible. As long as she lived, therefore, the Tower of Clackmannan was frequented by her numerous friends and acquaintances, of various ranks, and of all ages; for her extreme weight of years had not made the least impression upon that happy vivacity and cheerfulness of temper, which had always made her company so much the admiration and the delight of her friends. She was formed to support to the last, with undiminished dignity, the character of the race from which she was sprung.
*** Copy of the Narrative on the Margin of the Family Tree of the Bruces of Clackmannan.
Reader,
Since we are to speak of the genealogie of that heroick Prince King Robert Bruce, take notice, in the first place, that his Sirname (whither corruptly pronounced for Le Preux (the valiant), as in the old records it is oftentimes written Le Breuse, or a topicall sirname De Bruis, from a town and castle of that name in the grifons country, hath originally from France; where, about the year 1145, lived Peter Brucie, famous for writing against the romish errors of transubstantiation, whose followers, by the popish writers, are stiled Petro Brusiani. About the year 1050, divers noblemen of Normandy, coming over with Q.Emma, settled themselves in England; after her death (being hated of the English) were forced to retire for Scotland, which was then nearly allied to the Duke of Normandy, by reason that King Kenneth the III and King Malcolm the II, married two daughters of that house amongst the rest.
I, Adelme le Bruis, Preos or Breos (for so diversely is he named), obtained in Scotland the lands of Bouilden. This Adelme joined, in the year 1066, with William the Bastard, Duke of Normandy, in the conquest of England; and for his valiant service, was highly rewarded with great lands there, namely, the castle and Barony of Skelton, and Lordship of Cleveland, the lands of Hert, Hertnesse, Hertlepool, Danby, Levington, Yaruan, Guisburgh, Shorp, Sibthrop, Carleton, Westly Broston, and Uplythan. He had two sones,
1. Robert, his successor,; ? William, Prior of Guisburgh . He carried, in his coat of arms, A, a lyon rampant : He had a younger brother, named William le Breos, Lord of Bromaer, in Sussex.
2. Robert Bruce, elder sone to Adelme, assisted Edgar (sone to K. Malcolm Cranmore) in recovery of the crown of Scotland, usurped by Duncan, his bastard brother, and Donald Bane his uncle; he married Agness Annand, heir to the lordship of Annandale, who bare him two sones; 1st, Adam, lord of Skelton; 2nd, Robert, Lord of Annandale. He founded the priory of Guisburgh, anno 1150, and endowed it richly with lands and tythes. He assisted St. David, then Earle Huntingtone, in founding the abbey of Selkirk, which afterwards, when he came to the crown, transported to Kelso. This Lord Robert, as witness in the charter of that mortification, has contributed his lands of Bouilden for increasing the patrimony thereof. He died anno 1141, and was buried in the monastery of Guisburgh; so that they are mistaken who account this Robert to be the man who assisted William the Conqueror anno 1063, being some 75 years before his death. His brother William, prior of Guisburgh, died AD 1155.
3. Robert, second of that name, was second Lord of Annandale, in right of his mother, and Lord of Cleveland, Hert, Hertness, and Hertpool, by his father's gift. He conformed to the customs of those times appointing his fathers bearing, assumed the cost of Annandale O, a chief and saltier G, and having no sons by his first wife Alisa, or Avisa, he gave sundry mortifications to the canon of Guisburgh; he gave also many lands in marriage with his daughters, whose posterity carry his arms, with alterations, namely, Johnston, Moffet, Tweedy, Taie, Litle, Corry, Hert, Geir, Jardin, Boys. He had, with his second wife Juditha, daughter to William of Lancaster, Lord of Kendell, he had,
4. William, third lord of Annandale and Cleveland, a valiant religious nobleman, who lived in the days of K Alexander II. In the 10th year of his reigne. He is witness in a charter granted by him to Abbey of Kelso; he confirmed his predecessor's donation to the monastery of Kelso and Guisburgh, adding moreover a new gift, of certain lands in Hertlepool to the canons of Guisburgh. He married Isabel, daughter to William the Lyon, begotten upon the daughter de Avenell.
5. Robert his son, third of that name, and fourth lord Annandale and Cleveland, married Isabella, daughter to Gilbert of Clare, Earl of Clare, Glocester and Hertford; had three sons, I. Robert, his successor; II. John, of whom many of the surname of Bruce in Scotland are descended,; III. Sir Bernard, of Conington, in England.
6. Robert, fourth of that name, and fifth Lord of Annandale, married Isabell, second daughter to Prince David, Earl of Huntingdon and Chester, and got with her the Lordship of Garioch. He was, for his exceeding valour, sirnamed the Noble. In the year 1264 he, with John Baliol, Lord of Galloway, was sent with an army to the assistance of King Henry III of England against the Barons.
7. Robert, his son, fifth of that name, Lord of Annandale and Garioch, married Martha Countess of Carrick. The clandestine marriage, spoken of by our historians, was not betwixt her and the Lord Robert Bruce, but with Thomas Mackintagart, her fifth husband; who, (being Earl of Carrick in her right), in the year 1270, was sent with other noblemen to the wars of the Holy Land with 1000 soldiers; and, dying there without issue, left the lady a widow, whose marriage the King procured to his cousin Lord Robert Bruce, whereby he became the Earl of Carrick. She bare many children to him;
1. Robert, sixth of that name, thereafter King of Scotland; 2. Edward Earl od Carrick and king of Ireland; 3. Sir Neil Bruce, taken in Kildrimmie, 4. and 5. Thomas and Alexander, taken in Galloway: These three were basely murdered by King Edward Long Shanks. His first daughter Christian was married first to Sir Andrew Murray, Lord Bothwell. After his death (he being killed at Stirling in 1297), she was married to Donald, Earl of Mar. Second daughter Eufeme, married to Sir Thomas Randolph, Sheriff of Roxburgh, and great chamberlain of Scotland. Thid, Marjory, married to Sir Neil Campbell of Loch. The fourth married to Sir Christopher Seaton of Seaton.
This Robert is he who contended with Baliol for the crown, and being perfidiously used by King Edward long shanks (who made use of his power and friends to conquer Scotland, under pretence of maintaining his title), at length perceiving the treachery, and labouring in vain to get his son, the Lord Robert Bruce, in his own power, whom king Edward caused to be kept in Cailis as a pledge to bind his father to his service, and so to withdraw himself into Scotland, broken with grief and indignation. As he returned from Hert to Annandale, he deceased in the way, about Pasche 1304, and was buried in the monastery of Holan Coultran. Observe, here the reader is admonished of some mistakes in the writer's history; some placing another Robert betwixt this Earl of Carrick and Robert the noble, who married one of the heirs of Huntingtoun; some affecting that Robert the noble himself was Baliol's competitor; some writing that Robert, earl of Carrick, who contended with Baliol, was the same which afterwards so happily came to the crown; whereas Robert the noble was father to the Earl of carrick, and dyed before Alexande the III. King Robert also was but a child of ten or twelve years in the time of contention, his father being still alive, who (as said is) dyed anno 1304.
8. King Robert Bruce married, first Isabel, daughter to Gratney, Earl of Mar, by whom he had one daughter Marjorie, who bare to her husband, the Lord Walter Stewart of Renfrew, King Robert of Scotland; and secondly, he married Isabel de Bourk, Daughter to Haynter, Earl of ulster in Ireland, who was mother to King David and to Margaret, countess of Sutherland. King David had no issue, whereby the crown fell to the house of Stewart.
9. Edward Earl of Carrick and King of Ireland (younger brother to King Robert) married Isabell, daughter of John, earl of Athol, sister daughter to the Lord Cumine Stair at Dumfries. She bare him three sons, successively one after another Earls of Carrick; Robert, killed at Duplin; earl Alexander, killed at Haledon-Hill both without issue; Earl Thomas married Dornagilla cumine, daughter to red John Cumine, widow of Archibald Douglas, lord of Galloway (in her right), By whom he had one daughter Eleanor, who married sir James Sandelands, to whom her uterine brother William, Earl of Douglas gave in portion with her the Barony of west Calder; of which marriage, the barons of West Calder and Lords of Torphichen are descended. In this Thomas ended the male issue of Robert Bruce, fifth earl of Carrick, whereupon that Earldom was bestowed upon John Stewart, Lord of Kyle, eldest sone to King Robert Stewart, who thereafter was king, called Robert the II: and the Earldom of Carrick was annexed to the principality.
10. King David Bruce, in the 39th year of his reign, 1369, gave the barony and castle of Clackmannan, which of old belonged to the crown, to his kinsman "delecto Consanguineo", saith the charter, dated at perth the 9th of December a regni 39. Robert Bruce descended of William Adelme's brother, whose successor (after the house of Annandale were extinct), did succeed as chief, and so assumed the armes, to wit, a chief and saltier, so carried by the lairds of Clackmannan. The house of Airth giving for difference a star in chief, and Earlshall descended from Airth for a farther difference, adeth a flower de lis, in memory of his advancement by King Charles the VIII. Of France (for his great services) to the barony of concrefault, which are excambed with the lord Monneypenney for the lands of Earlhall in Fyffe.
11. Sir Bernard Bruce, third son to the foresaid Robert, fourth Lord of Annandale, by the favour of elder brother, Robert the noble, who married David, Earl of Huntingtoun's daughter, obtained the marriage of the heir of Connington, in Huntingtounshire, and Exton in Rutlandshire, in England, holding in fee of earl of Huntingtoun. To him succeeded his son Barnard II His son Barnard III, His son Barnard IV who had no issue. His younger brother John Bruce had two daughters, Jean, who got the lands of Exton, of whom descended the Huntingtouns of Exton; Agnes Bruce got the lands of Connington, whose successor is Sir Robert Cotton of Connington, the famous antiquary.
We came now to speak of lord Adam of Skelton, eldest son to Robert first Lord of Annandale, whose successors carried in their coat of arms, A, a lyon rampant, P. His son, Adam Bruce, (second of that name), had for his successor Peter, I, a mighty baron, who married the daughter of Stephen of Compeigne (sister's son to the conqueror), Earle Albermarle and Holderness. His son Peter II married Havisa, grandchild and heir to William of Lancaster, Lord of Kendall, in whose right he and his heirs possessed that barony; He died at Mersilles in France (as he returned from the Holy Land) in 1219. His son Peter III had no children; and he was last of the male succession of Adam, Lord of Skelton.
His great inheritance was divided amongst his four sisters: Agnes brought to her husband Sir Walter Falconbridge the barony of Skelton; Lucie and her husband Sir Marmaduke Thueng, had the barony of Danby, Margaret Bruce and her husband, Robert Ross, Lord of Warkcastle, got the Lordship of Kendall, Laderina with her husband John de Bella Aqua, had the lands of Carleton.
12. William le Breos, for so he and his posterity is cald, brother to Adelme, for his service in the conquest, got from William of Normandy the castle and barony of Bremwer, in Sussex.
13. Peter le Breos, his son, second lord of Bremwer, married Havisa, daughter of William de Momara, earl of Lincoln, in her right; she dyed in the holy land 1128.
14. Philip le Breos, his son, third lord of Bremwer, a valiant nobleman, was one of the first adventurers in the conquest of Ireland. He married Bertha, second daughter to Millo Fitz-Walter, Earle of Hereford. She had three brethren, Rodger, Walter and Henry, one after another Earls of Hereford, who leaving no issue, Bertha augmented her husband Philip with the lordship of Brecknockshire, and Abergavenny, in Monmouthshire in England.
15. William, his son, fourth lord Bremwer, and also lord Brecknock and Abergavenny, married Eva, one of the five daughters and co-heirs (after the death of their five brethren) of William Marshall, the great earl of Pembroke. She had two sons.
16. William, who dying without issue, left his succession to his brother.
17. Robert, who married Helen, daughter of Allan de Vitro Pont, etc. This Robert did quit his own arms, and assumed those of Annandale, they being the only male-heirs of the family descended from Adelme. King Robert, his brother Edward, and his sons, all earls of Annandale, being extinct without issue, so that this Robert remained chief, assuming the primitive terms which his successors carry unto this day from him, many bearing the name Bruce, are descended; whose son,
18. Robert I. Laird of Clackmannan, married ----Stuart, daughter to the laird of Rosenyth, who bare to him three sons, Robert, Edward, Thomas, and a daughter, who married the laird of Balnagoun: but his son,
19. Robert, Second laird of Clackmannan, ---- scrymgeure of Didop, by whom he had 1st David, 2nd Bruce of Munies.
20. David, third laird of Clackmannan, married the daughter to the Lord of Lorn.
21. David, fourth laird of Clackmannan, married, 1st ---- Stirling, daughter to the laird of Kier: 2 he married Herris, daughter to the laird Taregles, on both of whom he had issue, as in the tree to be seen.
22. Sir David, fifth laird of Clackmannan, married Jennet Blacketer, daughter to the Laird of Tulliallan, etc.
23. John, sixth laird of Clackmannan, married --- Murray, daughter to the laird of Polmacs.
24. Robert, seventh laird of Clackmannan, succeeded john, and married --- Murray, daughter to the Laird of Tullibarn, by whom he had issue.
25. Sir Robert, eighth lord of Clackmannan, had to his first wife Jennet Wardlaw, daughter of the Laird of Tory. After her death, he married Helena Durie of the house of Durie. What numerous issue he had by them, it is needless here to repeat, since the tree clearly points them out.
26. Robert, ninth laird of Clackmannan, married Elizabeth Haliburton, daughter to the laird of Pitcur, and had by her Sir Henry; 2. George Bruce of Comery. He also had three daughters 1 Catherin, married Robert Watson, brother's son of Cafters. 2 Jean married Weemys of Pitney; 3 Helena married Alexander Bruce of Kinnaird.
27. Sir Henry, tenth Laird of Clackmannan, hade to his first wife Lady Mary Shan, daughter of Sir Alexander Shan of Sauchy, by whom, he had Sir David, his successor, 2 Captain John Bruce, who married ---Robertson of Bedlay; 3 Henry Bruce. He also had a daughter, Jeanie, who married James Bruce of Powfoules. His second lady was the countess of Dundie.
28. Sir David Bruce, present laird of Clackmannan, married Margaret McKenzie, eldest daughter of the Viscount of Tarnert, and has by her Elizabeth Bruce, etc., who God long continue. Amen, Amen.
Pranobilia illustiddinae & antiquitate haud ulli secundae Brusiorum Famiae genealogiam in hac tabula delineatam, honoratissimo vire D. Davidi Brusio, Eq. A & Baron Gentis suse Principi Submisse dicavit. M. Joh. Szombatinus Hungarus. A. Do. 1686
Character of the people.
The great diversity of ranks and employments in the parish, renders the character of the people equally diversified. In general, however, they are a sober, industrious, and religious people, though instances of great profligacy now and then occur. Many of the lower ranks are much addicted to the drinking of whisky, which is often the cause of much misery to their families. The great body of the farmers are a most intelligent and respectable class of men; many of them possessing sentiments and manners superior to their rank in life. The higher ranks in the parish have been, from time immemorial, uniformly distinguished by their exemplary conduct, and their regular attendance upon all the ordinances of religion*. And it is but justice to say, that they still continue to deserve this character, which certainly has a happy influence upon the manners of the inferior orders of the people.
*The late lord kennet, one of the members of the court of session, and of the high court justiciary, had his residence in this parish. His publick virtues, and his character as a judge, are too well known to need any encomium. His private life was no less amiable and respectable. He was a blessing to all ranks in this corner of the country, in which he lived. When he died, the tears of the widow and the fatherless were shed upon his grave, for "the cause which he knew not, he literally searched out."
Multis ille bonis flebilis occidis.
Miscellaneous Observations
Many dreadful accidents have happened in this parish. Several persons have been drowned; several hurt and killed, and burnt to death, at the public works. Two children had their brains bashed out, by coal waggons going over their heads. Two young men belonging to the parish had their lives wonderfully Preserved, after falling from heights, almost incredible to be told. One fell 75 1/2 feet from a high tower, and was little hurt; the very same person, sometime after, fell 30 feet from the roof of a house, and was not hurt. Another person fell into an old coal pit, 70 feet deep, and was got out safe, having only his thigh bone broken. These old open coal-pits, without the least fence around them, are frequent in the collieries of this parish. They are a publick nuisance, by which the lives of men are often exposed to real danger.
At the colliery of Sauchy, there is at present s woman who has twins; she herself was a twin, and her mother was one of three at a birth. Two sisters in the parish were lately the mothers of three dumb children.
A young cow, some years ago, produced a calf when she was exactly 13 months old.
About 20 years ago, a very large spreading ash tree was struck by lightning, and has since exhibited a singular phenomenon. The lightning had struck one half, only, of its branches, all the way down one side of the trunk, tore up and laid open the roots of the same side. Since that time, one half of the tree has decayed, while the other remained healthy. The bark was entire all-round the trunk; but the healthy branches continued yearly to decrease a little. No farther observations, however can now be made upon it: for though it appeared to be a great natural curiosity, yet the proprietor, it seems has not considered it in this point of view, not thinking of the philosophical purposes to which it might have been subservient, has lately cut it down.
This parish still opens a wide field for improvements of various kinds. There was formerly a ferry boat on the river Forth, opposite the village of Clackmannan. This would still be of great use and convenience to the country, both to the north and south. The harbour at Clackmannan Pow, by a small expense, may be rendered a safe and convenient landing place. And a village also might be built at that place, so as to have many advantages of situation.
The whole County of Clackmannan, and this parish in particular, has long laboured under the greatest inconvenience, from the uncommonly bad state of the public roads. Fortunately, however, the gentlemen of the county have at last got their eyes opened to their true interest. A turnpike road bill for this county is just now depending in parliament, and with every prospect of success.