Laid out below is a copy of the New Statistical Account of Scotland entry for Muckart parish, published in 1845.
The New Statistical Account of Scotland – Volume 10, (1845)
PARISH OF MUCKART
(Presbytery of Auchterarder, Synod of Perth and Stirling.)
The Rev. James Thomson, Minister.
I. - Topography and Natural History.
Name, Boundary, etc.
The name of the parish has been written in various ways. The most ancient way appears to have been Mucard, the more recent Muckhart, and the modern Muckart. It is obviously derived from the Gaelic words “ Muc,” a wild boar, and “gart,” the head, or “ard,” high; alluding, as some suppose, to the shape of the hill terminating above the Yetts of Muckart, which, from one point of view in the parish, is supposed to bear some resemblance to a boar’s head ; or, according to others, to its being in ancient times infested by the wild boar. The shape of the parish is triangular. Its greatest length in a straight line, from east to west, is about 4 and a half miles, and its greatest breadth, from north to south, about 2 miles: altogether it may contain about 6 square miles. The Devon forms its principal boundary, separating it, with the exception of one farm, from the parish of Fossoway, on the south and east. On the north and west, it is separated respectively, by two small streams, from the parishes of Glendovan and Dollar.
Topographical Appearances.
A branch of the Ochils, running east and west, lies along the northern boundary of the parish, and is terminated on the east by a conical shaped hill, called Sea Mab, which is about 1350 feet above the level of the sea. The whole ridge of the Ochils in the parish is covered with grass, mingled with a little heather, and forms excellent pasturage for sheep. The course of the Devon, for some distance above the Rumbling Bridge, presents a remarkable appearance; a passage being apparently cut for it through the solid rock. In some parts of the fissure, on the lower portion of the rock, there are manifest traces of the action of running water ; but higher up, the rock is rough, bearing the appearance, in many places, of having been rent asunder. And as the level of the country at the Crook of Devon is such that, with a very little labour, the whole of the stream might be thrown into Lochleven, some who are fond of geological speculation have supposed, that the fissure had been opened by some convulsive movement of the earth, and after the water had found a passage through, it gradually deepened it by wintery torrents, until it reached the present level. In this fissure occurs the natural curiosity usually termed the “ Devil's Mill.” The water, in falling the height of some feet into a cauldron, is generally supposed to strike against a loose block of stone, which occasions it to emit a sound bearing some resemblance to that of a common grinding mill. And from the circumstance of the sound being constantly heard, on Sabbath, as well as other days, it has acquired its present name. The whole appearance of the fissure is very remarkable, the water forcing its way a little above the mill through a crevice of considerable length, and scarcely six feet in breadth.
Meteorology.
In the upper parts of the parish, from its elevation above the level of the sea, the climate is considerably colder than in the lower parts adjoining to Dollar; the difference of level being not much short of 400 feet. And as, in addition, the hills attract a great deal of moisture, the harvest in general is considerably later. The quantity of rain that falls at the Yetts must be very great, as the clouds may often be seen travelling along the face of the hill, and depositing their moisture, when, at the distance of half a mile from it, all is sunshine. And as these clouds in general draw to one point, Sea Mab, and thence proceed along the Ochils to Milnathort, or diverge to the Cleish Hills, on the opposite side of the vale, its neighbourhood gets a goodly share of almost every shower. Unfortunately there is no rain-gage to estimate the amount that falls, nor, as far as has been discovered, has any record been kept by any of the parishioners of the variations of the thermometer or barometer, or other atmospherical phenomena.
Hydrography.
The only stream of consequence in the parish is the Devon, which has rather a remarkable course. Rising toward the west of the Ochils in the parish of Blackford, it flows at first in an eastern direction for nine or ten miles, then southerly for about five, when, after passing the Crook, it turns nearly due west, and after a further run of fourteen or fifteen miles, empties itself into the Forth above Alloa, about five or six miles from its source.
Its depth varies very much, according to the season, and according to the inclination of its bed. In most places, it may be forded with safety, unless during a flood; but at the same time, it contains a number of very deep pools, which it,has cut out in its impetuous course. It is rather rapid, so long as it skirts this parish; but after leaving it, and especially when it reaches the carse grounds, it becomes very sluggish, and presents little that is attractive in its appearance.
Being in many places confined in a narrow bed, and descending from a. high to a low level, the Devon, while it bounds the parish, presents many falls, and much natural beauty. While passing the fissure above the Rumbling Bridge, to which allusion has already been made, the whole of its course for half a mile may be termed a succession of rapids. In some places, it may be seen bounding from rock to rock; storming at being confined within such narrow limits, and tumbling into some rounded basin to wind its way out to encounter some further turmoil. And at others, it may be seen through the overhanging wood, at a great depth below, indicating its existence by the whitened spray upon its surface.
When viewed from the parapet of the Rumbling Bridge, the scenery beneath, on both sides, is such as is not often to be met with. Raised considerably more than 100 feet above the level of the stream, the passenger beholds it confined within two vast walls of solid rock, forcing its darksome way to the comparative calm and quietude of the scene below. After leaving the Rumbling Bridge, the Devon, in its course for nearly a mile, is rather smooth. But then it presents a very uncommon appearance. It suddenly precipitates itself, by a fall of 30 feet, into a cauldron from which, when the water is not flooded, there is apparently no outlet. The shape of the cauldron is circular, and the fill of water causes it to boil as if some vast furnace were highly heated beneath. From this cauldron, by an unseen communication, it glides into a second; from this second, in a similar manner, into a third ; and finally, into a fourth ; when at last, in one body, by a fall of 44 feet, it reaches the open space below it.
Geology and Mineralogy.
The rock that prevails in the upper part of the parish, is trap or whinstone. Near the banks of the Devon, at the Vicar’s Bridge, there are some strata of ironstone, limestone, and sandstone or freestone ; and in the west end of the parish, there is a bed of coal. The ironstone is wrought on the Fossoway side of the Devon, and is esteemed a very rich ore. On the Muckart side, however, it is not wrought, owing to the want of a proper level to carry away the water. The limestone in the parish is occasionally wrought by the proprietors for their own use, but not for sale ; there being abundance of limestone in the neighbourhood.
The coal occurs in the shape of a basin, fully half a mile in length, by as much in breadth. There are a number of seams, but only one is wrought ; from which, some thousand tons are taken annually, and carried principally to the western part of Strathearn. In both the ironstone and limestone, a number of fossil remains occurs, principally shells. Some rather pretty specimens of rock crystal are occasionally found, in quarrying trap for road metal.
In the upper part of the parish, a number of rolled blocks occurs, composed generally of trap, but occasionally of sandstone, of considerable magnitude, although there is no sandstone rock in the neighbourhood, but what is at least 200 feet lower. The soil in the upper part of the parish is in general light and gravelly, conjoined occasionally with moss, and, if not resting upon rock, resting upon sand or gravel. Farther west, the soil becomes more retentive ; and on the banks of the Devon, in the immediate neighbourhood of Dollar, in the lower part of the parish. it approaches more nearly to sand.
Zoology.
No rare animals occur in the parish, and the only circumstance worth mentioning is the fact, that the same species as the Lochleven trout is in some solitary instances found in the Devon. Some have attempted to account for this, by the supposition, that some of the small tributaries of the Devon and other streams that flow into the loch, may, in very moist weather, be so connected in certain situations, that the small trout from the one may find their way into the other. Sometimes the trout in the Devon attain to a great size. One was caught lately, with the common fly, which measured 22 inches in length, and weighed about 7 pounds.
II. - Civil History
Accounts of the Parish.
The only ancient document of which the writer is aware, that gives any information relative to the parish, is Martin’s History of the See of St Andrews, written in 1683, and printed 1797 ; from which it appears that the greater part of the parish, styled in the Golden Charter of the See of St Andrews, Muckartshire, was given to the Archbishop by James III.; that the house of Castleton was built by Archbishop Lamberton in 1320; and that, in 1490, Archbishop William, striving to gain the Earl of Argyle to take part with him against the Archbishop of Glasgow, disponed and feued out to him the Lordship of Muckartshire, for a feu-duty of L. 101 Scots. In his possession the greater part of the parish remained for a considerable time. Part appears, from the date of the charters, to have been feued off in 1500, and part in 1564; and now, the whole has fallen into the hands of different proprietors. In 1644, every house in the parish, including the church, with the exception of one or two at the eastern extremity, was burned by the Marquis of Montrose, when he sacked and destroyed Castle Campbell, at that time belonging to the Earl of Argyle. In remembrance of his barbarous inroad, the pass in Glendovan, by which he entered the parish, still bears the name of the Mandrose Yetts, obviously Montrose Yetts.
Land-owners.
The land-owners in the parish who have more than L. 100 Scots valuation are, Mr Haig of Blairhill; Dr Paton of Middleton; Miss Bruce of Castleton; Mr Renny of Balilish; and Dr McTurk of Middlehall. The remaining heritors amount in number to 15.
Parochial Registers.
The parochial register from 1698 to 1743, containing an account of sessional discipline, proclamations, and collections and distribution of the poor’s fund, appears to have been remarkably well kept. From 1787 to the present day, there is also a full account of all sessional proceedings, but none from 1743 to 1787. There is a separate register of baptisms from 1698 to the present day, and another of proclamations from 1800. In addition to the above, there is a small volume of sessional proceedings from 1678 to 1695, very difficult to be deciphered.
Antiquities.
The only antiquity in the parish, worth mentioning is the remains of the old house at Castleton, built by Archbishop Lamberton, in 1820. It appears, from some foundation stones lately taken up, to have been a building of considerable size.
From the house down to a small stream flowing past it, there are the remains of a covered way, as if indicating, from the means employed to reach the water in safety, that in these troublous times it was occasionally converted into a place of defence. All that now remains is apparently a small part of a turret or corner of the building. Several stone coffins have, from time to time, been found in different parts of the parish; but there seems to have been nothing about them worthy of notice.
III. - POPULATION.
The population of the parish, according to Dr Webster‘s account in 1755 was 535
1792, 526
1800, 538
1811, 540
1821, 704
1831, 617
1883, 664
The last census was taken by the present incumbent, and included 324 males and 340 females.
From the above it will appear that there is a considerable decrease in the population between 1821 and 1831. This may be accounted for from the circumstance, that, at the first of these periods, very considerable improvements were going on at Blairhill and Balruddery, which required an additional number of labourers ; and, moreover, a distillery in the parish was then in active operation, which has now been given up.
The number of the population residing in villages in the pariah, in 1833, was 230
in the country, 454
Yearly average of births for the last 7 years, 20
of marriages, 7
Number of persons under 15 years of age, 255
from 15 to 30, 185
30 to 50, 141
50 to 70, 74
70 years and upwards, 9
Number of resident heritors who have more than L. 100 Scots valuation, - 3
Proprietors who have more than L. 50 Sterling per annum, 15
unmarried men above 50 years of age, 17
females above 45 years of age, 27
families, 135
Average number of children in each family 3 1/12;
Number of inhabited houses, . 135
uninhabited houses, 4
houses building, 2
fatuous persons, 2
Number of males employed in agriculture as farmers, cottars, and farm-servants, 104
in manufacture, 4
in retail trade 19
in handicraft - masters 13, journeyman and apprentices, 11
Number of clergyman, 2
Surgeons, 1 ; Schoolmasters, 2
males employed in mines, 3
Number of male servants not employed in agriculture, above 20 years of age, 2
under 20 do. . 2
females, do. do do. 26
The people, upon the whole, appear to enjoy in a reasonable degree the comforts and advantages of society ; and the only great subject of regret is the number of public-houses which, for a population of 664, amount to 13, and exert an unfavourable influence on the morals of some of the people.
IV. - INDUSTRY.
Number of acres cultivated regularly or occasionally, 2684
uncultivated, . . . 995
undivided common, . . 300
under wood, . . . 250
Rent of Land.
Rent of arable ground per acre, L. 1 to L. 3, average, L. 1, 5s.
Rent of grazing per ox or cow, L. 8 to L. 4 ; per ewe or sheep, 4s. to 6s.
Rate of Wages.
Labourer’s wages per day, 1s. 6d. ; mason's 2s. to 2s. 3d. ; wright’s, 2s.
Husbandry.
Little attention was paid, until of late, in improving the breeds of cattle and sheep. The short-horn breed of cattle has, however, been introduced by one enterprising proprietor, along with the Leicester and Southdown sheep, and, from his success, others seem disposed, in some degree, to imitate his example. Various improvements in the land have been carried on with great spirit. Mr Haig of Blairhill has completely changed the aspect of his part of the parish; and there can be little doubt that his improvements have been as profitable as ornamental. The improvements on the property of the moor, belonging to Mr Mowbray, have excited general attention, from the rapidity with which they were carried on, and the remarkable success which has attended them. It appears that, within three years, he has built stone dikes of more than nine miles in length, lipped and pointed with lime ; planted upwards of 700 chain of hedges, and laid about the same length of drains, as well as trenched upwards of 100 acres of ground with the spade.
It is impossible, owing to the peculiar circumstances of the parish, to give any statement of the average gross amount; of raw produce raised in it. From the high rent got for grass parks, the great object of the proprietors, in the upper part of the parish, is to lay down their ground for permanent pasture in the best condition. This induces them, from time to time, to lift some fields, when the grass has become deteriorated, and take a rotation of crops: which lends to such an uncertainty as to the gross amount of produce, as would set all calculation at defiance. The total rental of the parish, however, as nearly as can be ascertained, may be about L. 4250.
V.-Parochial Economy.
Market-Town.
Alloa, which is about ten miles distant from the centre of the parish, is properly the market and post-town, although there is a penny-post to Dollar, which is about seven miles nearer.
Means of Communication.
There may be about six miles of turnpike road in the parish, one line stretching from Dollar to a bridge over the Devon, on the road to Milnathort; and another from the Rumbling Bridge to about a mile up Glendovan. One coach from Glasgow to Perth passes through the parish daily, and another from Edinburgh to Crieff three times a week. The number of bridges in the parish over the Devon is four, all in good repair. The first is on the road from the Yetts to Milnathort; the second at Fossoway Church ; the third is the Rumbling Bridge, on the new road from the south ; and the fourth the Vicar's Bridge, on the old county road from the south, about two miles east from Dollar.
At the Rumbling Bridge, before the present arch was built, there was one beneath it, at about 86 feet above the stream, which still is allowed to remain. and adds much to the effect of the scenery when viewed from below. It was very narrow, and had no parapet, which must have made it very dangerous at any time, and particularly at night.
The Vicar’s Bridge is supposed to derive its name from an event that took place at the commencement of the Reformation. It was there where the Vicar of Dollar, who had embraced the Protestant faith, met with an untimely end from the hands of his persecutors.
Ecclesiastical State.
The church is situated to the north-east of the principal village called the Pool, very conveniently for the villagers, but not equally so for those residing in the west end of the parish. It appears to have been built since the Roman Catholic times, as the font stone is used to form part of the front wall. The following dates are cut on stone in different parts of the building - l620, 1699, 1715, l789, - which, as far as can be ascertained, indicate that the church was rebuilt at the first of these periods; got a thorough repair at the second, when the first active Presbyterian clergyman was settled after the Revolution; was again repaired at the third; and was partly rebuilt and repaired at the last. At present, it is rather ruinous, and not sufficient for accommodating the population in connection with the Established Church. The consequence is, that many of the young people remain at home, and others make it an excuse for irregular attendance. The number of communicants at present is more than that of the regular seats in the church.
The manse is newly built, at an estimate of L. 600, is very commodious, and does credit to the contractors. The glebe contains 10 acres 1 rood, and may be worth about L.20 per annum. The stipend is L. 150, part of which is paid by the Exchequer There is one meeting-house in the parish, connected with the United Associate Synod. The present incumbent, it is understood, in addition to a manse and a valuable glebe of 13 acres, has L. 100 per annum, paid partly from the seat rents, and partly by collections at the church doors. The number of families connected with the Establishment is 89, including 438 individuals. The parishioners connected with the Secession church amount to 226. Their meeting-house contains sittings for about 360, and of these there are about 285 let. Divine worship in the Established Church is generally well attended, and the number of communicants is about 200. The average yearly amount of collections at the church door is about L. 15.
Education.
There are two schools in the parish, the one parochial and the other unendowed. In both, the same branches in general are taught, viz. English reading and grammar, writing, arithmetic, book-keeping, and Latin, conjoined occasionally with geography, algebra, and French. The salary of the parish school-master is L. 25, 6s. 8d. ; the amount of the fees may be L. 17; interest on some mortified money, L. 9. These may give as a total income L. 51, 6s. 8d. ; along with a house and garden. The school fees are 10d. a month for English reading, with 2d. Additional for any of the other branches, such as writing, arithmetic, or Latin. The fees in the unendowed school are understood to be a trifle higher. With the exception of two fatuous persons, all in the parish arrived at years of discretion, as far as can be ascertained, have been taught to read, and almost invariably they have at least got some lessons in writing, although many may have altogether neglected it in after life.
Literature.
There is a library in the parish, for the united parishes of Glendovan, Muckart, and Fossaway, containing a good selection of books.
Poor and Parochial Funds.
The average number of persons on the regular poor’s roll is six, receiving each at the rate of L. 4, 0s. 7d. yearly, along with a cart of coals. The poor's funds, arising from collections at the church doors, which may amount to L. 15, 5s. ld.; the use of the mortcloth, L. 1; interest on L. 240 mortified money. L. 8, 8s.; and a voluntary assessment by the heritors, L. 12. 16s. 4d.; amount altogether to the sum of L. 37, 9s. 5d., which is expended in regular monthly allowance to the poor on the roll, in temporary supplies to others in needy circumstances, and in paying the salaries of session-clerk, beadle, etc.
MISCELLANEOUS OBSERVATIONS.
Since the drawing up of the last report, a total change seems to have taken place upon the face of the parish. Then, it was difficult of access; but now, by the opening of the new road from Stirling to Milnathort about the year 1810, and that from Dunfermline to Crieff in 1816, it has become a thoroughfare. Upwards of 10,000 tons of coal pass through it annually, and from 4000 to 5000 carts of lime, besides carriers’ carts, and crowds of visitors to the falls, in all kinds of conveyances, in the summer and autumn months. Then, a considerable part of the higher district of the parish was covered with heather or peat-moss, making the ague not an uncommon complaint; now, in the same district, unless in some plantations, the heather is no longer visible, and the moss is converted into a rich pasture meadow, and, instead of being, as it was then, bare and exposed to every wind that blows, this district is already clad with numerous beltings and clumps of trees, and in a few years will be as sheltered and ornamented as any parish in the neighbourhood.
The circumstance, that the rental of the parish is now nearly four times the amount of what it was about the year 1792. although there is no great difference in the price of agricultural produce, may show how busy the hand of man has been in the work of improvement.
September 1835.
The materials for the above report were collected in 1833 ; and the various statements made are to be understood as having a reference to that date.