Statistical Account - Alva Parish

Laid out below is a copy of the Statistical Account of Scotland entry for Alva parish, published in 1796. At this time Alva was a part of Stirlingshire, however it was surrounded on all sides by other shire boundaries. Alva became part of Clackmannanshire in 1891. 

The Statistical Account of Scotland, Volume 18 (1796)

Compiled by Sir John Sinclair

Number IV.

PARISH OF ALVA,

(County of Stirling.)

By the Rev. Mr John Duncan

Name.

In the writings of the last century, and before that time, the name of this parish was generally written Alvath, or Alveth; but that mode of spelling has been disused almost a complete century. Whether the present name, Alva, be of Gaelic origin, is not altogether certain. Fanciful etymologies can never yield satisfaction to the judicious antiquary; and therefore, when nothing rational can be offered, it seems better to acknowledge ignorance, than to offer what can neither amuse nor inform.

Situation.

This parish and barony is a part of the county of Stirling, although it happens to be totally disjointed from every part of it. No certain account can now be given, how this has happened. It is surrounded by the shire of Clackmannan on the east, south, and west, and on the north, it is bounded by a part of the county of Perth. It extends in length, from east to west, somewhat more than two miles and a half; and from south to north, rather more than four miles. Tillicoultry, is the adjacent parish on the east. The river Devon, which has its source in the barony of Alva, after a long course, at first almost due east; and then southward through Glen-devon, makes a sudden turn westward, near the church of Fossoway, and passing through the parishes of Muckhart, Dollar, and Tillicoultry, gently glides along the south boundary of this parish, and divides it from the parishes of Alloa and Clackmannan, which are situated on the south. The parish of Logie is next adjacent on the west.

Extent, etc.

The lands of Alva extend over a very considerable portion of that long range of hills, distinguished by the name of Ochills; the remaining grounds are extended over part of that valley, which lies between the foot of these hills, and the river Devon. The mean breadth, from the banks of the river to the bottom of the hill, may be about three-fifths of a mile.

That portion of the Ochil hills now under review, when seen from the south at the distance of a mile or two, appear to be one continued range, with little variation in height; but as the mountain slopes towards the Forth, it is intersected by exceedingly deep and narrow glens, through each of which, streams of water run, that discharge themselves into the Devon.

*It is impossible to view this little river of clear water, without admiring its beauty, in its wonderful passage through the rock, at the Rumbling Bridge, and Caldron Lin, and its numberless meanderings, after it descends into the valley, east of Dollar; whence it glides generally in a deep bed with little fall, till it reaches the Firth of Forth, at the Cambus Miln, directly opposite to where its source began. When fuelled by heavy rains, or the melting snow, it overflows its banks, and covers the greatest part of the low grounds.

By means of these, the fore ground of this part of the Ochills, is divided into three separate hills, distinguished by the names of Wood-hill, Middle-hill and West-hill of Alva. On the brow of this last hill, is a very high perpendicular rock, which, for what reason is not known; has obtained the name of Craig Leith. It has been long beyond memory, remarkable for the residence of that species of hawks, the falcon, which is used for the diversion of hunting. One pair, and only one pair, it is affirmed by the inhabitants of the place, build a nest on the front of thin tremendous rock. These are said to hatch their young annually; and, when their progeny are of a proper age, the parents force them to seek a new habitation, till at last, however long they may he supposed to live, the parents themselves must yield their residence to their survivors. In former times, when that sport was in fashion, a hawk of this breed was thought a valuable acquisition. They are still in great request among our own nobility, who love that sport; and very lately, an English gentleman noted for his skill in that diversion, sent his servant all the way from Yorkshire, to procure some of this breed. In order to come at the nest, he was let down by a rope fastened around his waist, while the end of it was held fast by ten or twelve people, who stood at a convenient distance from the edge of the precipice; and he was observed scrambling on the face of the rock, exploring the nest of the bird.

The house of Alva stands on an eminence, projecting from the base of the Wood-hill, and near the east end of the parish. The height of this projected part of the hill, is about 220 feet above the water of Devon, which runs in the valley below. The hill rises immediately behind the house, to the height of 1400 feet, making the whole height 1620 feet*. From the summit of this hill, there is a very extensive prospect to the north east, the south, and the south west. The view to the north west is a little interrupted by the hill of Dalmiot, a part of the Ochills, lying in the parish of Logie. From the top of the Wood-hill, however, the mouth of the Frith of Forth, the Bass, North Berwick Law, with the windings of the Forth, can easily be descried, with the coasts of Fife and East Lothian, etc.

*The hill continues to rise gradually for about two miles farther north, until it reaches the top of Ben-Cloch, which is the highest point of the Alva hills, and the summit of all the Ochills; and according to the observation taken by Mr. Udney, land surveyor, is about 2420 feet above the level of the Devon. The view from the top of Ben-Cloch is the most extensive and beautiful any where to be found, and is visited by all travellers of curiosity who delight in fine prospects.

The village of Alva is situated a small distance from the bottom of the West hill. A small rivulet, which issues from the glen which separates the West from the Middle hill, runs along the east side of the village; and not only affords a constant and plentiful supply of water, but adds very much to the beauty of the village; This receives a farther addition, from thriving plantation of forest trees growing on a steep bank on the east side of the rivulet, and affording a comfortable shelter from the north east winds,- which, of all others, are the most violent in this district. It is not certainly known, when this village began to be built. There is undoubted evidence, however, of Alva being a parish avove 500 years ago**; and it is probable that a village; very inconsiderable perhaps, may then have existed. Even at present the village is not extensive, and does not contain much above 130 families, including a few single persons each of whom occupy a part of a house. About the end of the last, and beginning of this this century, the late Sir John Erskine, grandfather of the present Sir James Sinclair Erskine, then proprietor, granted feus of a small parcel of ground to several inhabitants, on which they built a cottage and formed a garden; and a plan appears to have been designed by that gentleman, of building a village in the form of a square, two sides of which have been actually built. The other houses appear to have been set down, without any regular order; and where a convenient spot for a garden could be obtained. About the year 1767, the present lord Alva, resolving to enlarge the village, granted feus to such as were willing to build; in consequence of which, one complete row, consisting of about 20 houses, was erected in one season, each house having a small garden of a few falls, equal in breadth to the extent of the front of the house. A few years after, another row of houses parallel to the former, and with gardens laid out in the same manner, was completed. The rate at which the ground was at that time feued, was at 13s. And 4d. Per fall, or 36 square yards; it advanced by degrees to 15s. and 16s. Per fall, as the premium or purchase money, together with four pence the fall of annual feu duty. Taking the medium rate of 15s. It will be found to amount to L120 Sterling per acre as the price of the ground, and L 2:13:4 as the annual rent to the superior. What proprietor would hesitate to grant feus upon such terms as these; especially, when it is considered, that the annual duty may be converted into some staple commodity.

** Vide Chartulary of Cambuskenneth.

The arable soil of this parish may be properly divided into four different kinds. The first, which extends southward from the bottom of the hills, consists of a rich hazel mold intermixed with gravel and small stones; this is succeeded by a different kind of soil, being a stratum of moss over a bed of clay, and extending from 50 to 100 yards in breadth. In some places, this moss is found to be 7 feet in depth. Next to that, is a strong rich clay, extending a considerable way towards the river Devon; then follows what is called haughing ground, such as is usually found upon the banks of rivers; the banks of Devon being generally overflowed twice or thrice every year, great quantities of land are left on the ground as far as the inundation extends. The soil at the bed of the river appears to be in many places above 20 feet deep. The grounds of this parish produce the usual crops of wheat, barley, peas, beans, oats, clover, and potatoes.

The whole arable grounds within the parish, hare been inclosed, several years ago, with ditches and hedges. Those fields, which lie immediately below the house of Alva, at the bottom of the Wood-hill, and extending near to the banks of Devon, were inclosed, and planted with rows of oaks, ashes, and other forest trees, by the late Sir John Erskine, about 70 years ago, and were probably among the first inclosures in this part of the country. These have been chiefly in grass for a great many years, and are let annually to graziers, at the rare of from 25 to 30 shillings per acre. The general state of agriculture, in this, as well as in all the neighbouring parishes, was very rude and wretched, till within the last thirty years. And although the soil must be allowed to be equal at least, in quality, to that in the most fertile parts of Scotland; yet truth requires us to acknowledge, that those who were employed in cultivating it, were late in arriving at any considerable improvements. Wheat, justly esteemed the most beneficial of all crops, was not cultivated in this parish, till within the last fifteen years. Clean summer fallow, and proper dressing with lime and dung, were rarely, if ever attempted. Good example has at last opened mens eyes; and experience has demonstrated that the soil, when properly cultivated, is capable of the highest improvement, and is fit for producing wheat, and all the strongest grain. The tenants begin now to perceive the importance of fallowing, liming, and cleaning their lands, to obtain good returns, and the advantage of having broad clover for summer food for their horses, and being able to work them constantly, instead of sending them (as they did formerly), to graze for five months idle on the hills, at a considerable expence. Any person who has been acquainted with the state of farming in this parish and its immediate neighbourhood thirty years ago, must have been led to ascribe the flow progress of improvement, in a considerable degree, to the very small number of acres, of which the far greater part of the farms consisted. The stock of the farmer, may he considered, as in general, proportioned to the extent of his farm, which at that time did not commonly exceed thirty or forty acres. It was well, if, according to the mode of culture practiced at that time, he could pay his rent, and provide a mean subsistence for himself and his Family.

Another circumstance, which affected in a very particular manner the state of farming in this parish, and its neighbourhood, was the practice of driving coals from the coal pits on the south banks of Devon, to the shore of Alloa. To this labour, the farmers on the estates where the coals were raised, were bound by their leases and without entering more particularly into the subject, it must be obvious, how pernicious the effect of this practice must have been, with respect to the proper and necessary operations upon the farm. Such, however, is the contagion of example, that some of the farmers in this parish, who were under no obligation to be carriers on the estate of another proprietor, and excepting during one very short period, when coal was worked within the parish, had no occasion to be concerned in it, from ignorance and unskilfulness respecting their proper employment, and from the desire of a little gain, earned at the expence of severe labour to themselves and horses, with the tear and wear of carts, rude and simple as they were at that time, were foolish enough to join the farmers in their neighbourhood, and employ themselves during a considerable part of the summer, in carrying the great coal to the port of Alloa. They were at last however, wisely prohibited by Lord Alva, the late proprietor of this barony, from following this absurd and unprofitable occupation; indeed, when they began to acquire a taste for improving their farms, and to reap the benefit of their improvements, they were soon convinced of the inutility of their ancient practice; and very probably would have abandoned it of their own accord. The extent of the farms has been, within the last twenty years, considerably enlarged; the consequence of which has been, that besides imitating the example of the gradual improvements in agriculture, the farmer has been enabled to make a more respectable appearance than formerly. It is evident from the writings of those, who have treated of the subject of agriculture, that it has been considered as a difficult problem, to state the just and reasonable extent of a farm, or to fix the number of acres, that one farm should contain; and from the different opinions which have been given, it may be inferred, that perhaps no general rule can be laid down. A general observation, however, may be offered; that the farm should at least be so extensive, that the profits of the stock employed in cultivating it, should enable the farmer to live decently and comfortably, and in a manner above the other country tradesmen who surround him. In a small farm of 40, or even 50 acres, allowing it to be as productive as can be supposed, and the rent moderate; still the profits arising to the farmer, cannot possibly be so great, as to raise his state much above that of the lower class of manufacturers, who inhabit country parishes. According to the division of farms that has hitherto taken place in this parish, which has been from 30 to 60, or not more than 70 acres, they can hardly be deemed so large, as to place the farmer in a respectable situation.

From the description already given of the situation of the lands of this parish, they are naturally divided into arable and pasture ground. The three hills are incomparably the most beautiful in every respect of the whole range of the Ochills, from Glen-devon on the east, to their termination, near the bridge of Alloa on the west. They are cloathed with the richest verdure, at all seasons, and produce grass of the finest quality, and in the greatest variety. They are not so steep, so rugged or inaccessible, as those immediately westward in the parish of Logie; and they present a more regular, nobler and bolder aspect, than any of those that lie immediately on the east. They have been now for many years, divided into two separate farms, for sheep; one comprehending the west-hill, the other the middle-hill, together with that part of the Wood-hill which lies behind the fence, or wall, that surrounds the brow of that part of the hill, immediately above the house of Alva. 'Tis supposed that the former of these is capable of maintaining about 100 score of sheep, and the latter from 90 to 95 score. The rent of the west-hill, has been greatly increased, since the year 1759*. On the highest and back-lying ground, where the parish of Alva marches with an estate belonging to Mr Murray of Abercairney, in the parish of Blackford, the soil is mossy, and produces heath in great abundance, together with a strong and coarse grass. This however in resorted to by the stronger and older part of the flocks; and these, 'tis said by the shepherds, are seldom observed to quit their wild retreat, or to come forward in quest of the tender and more kindly grass, excepting perhaps when compelled by the rigour of the storm, to seek shelter on the fore-ground, or lower part of the hills. At the same time, it must be remarked, that snow never lies for any length of time, on the face of those hills**. It is remarkable however, that at the bottom of a ridge of rock, near to the summit of the high hill culled Ben-cloch, where it is sheltered from every wind, snow is frequently seen lying till the month of June. What is observed to resist so long the summer's heat, from the singularity of its extended but narrow form to the spectator's eye who views it at a distance, has received the appellation of Lady Alva's web.

*The rent of the west-hill in the year 1759, was very inconsiderable. There was then little demand for butcher-meat in this country; and the profits of grazing were very low. When the next lease was granted in 1775, when the demand for sheep and wool began to increase, the tenant was taken bound to pay more than twice the former rent. From the rapid progress of manufactures and of luxury, and from the higher character of the wool and of the sheep fed on the Alva hills, it is believed that those fine sheep farms are still capable of a considerable advance of rent.

**Snow seldom lies here more than two or three days; and even during that time, the sheep brouze on the young furze, and are in as good condition as if they had been fed on hay. The flocks have so much shelter from the situation of the hills, and from the plantations, that they have never materially suffered from the heaviest falls of snow. In January 1794, so fatal to the sheep and cattle in the southern parts of Scotland, and in the north of England, the farmers in the hills of Alva were fortunate as to scarcely lose a sheep.

It has never been the practice of the sheep-farmers here, to breed young sheep on these hills. Although they have generally a few scores of ewes on their farms; yet their lambs are commonly sold to the butcher. Of late years indeed, some attempts have been made to rear a few young sheep, but these bear no proportion to the number of their flock. The farmers go every year about mid-summer, to the markets at Linton, and purchase sheep of a year old. These, according to the custom of the sheep-farmers in the south, have been smeared with tar, but that practice is not found necessary in this district. After they have been shorn three times white, as they express it, they are sold about August and September, as fit for the butcher's use.

The next thing that is worthy of notice in this parish, is the state of the woollen manufactures. These have been carried on in the village of Alva, for more than a century at least. They consist chiefly of Scots blankets and Serges. The former are made from 9d. To 1s. The Scots yard, and the latter from 10d. to 15d. and a few from 16d. To 18d. per yard. It is more than probable, that this species of manufacture had flourished a great many years ago, in the neighbouring village of Tillicoultry; as an evidence of this, it is at this day known among the shopkeepers of the Lawnmarket of Edinburgh, by the name of Tillicoultry Serges. The number of looms constantly employed at present in this village is 67. The length of each web may be reckoned as at 80yards, and taking the average value at 10d. Or 11d. Per yard, the gross produce will amount to from L. 7000 to L. 8000 Sterling annually. The manufacturers make use chiefly of English wool in their serges and blankets, and this partly short, and partly combed wool. That which is produced from the sheep that pasture on the Ochills, is commonly manufactured by the people of the country for their own private use. A very considerable sum is annually expended by the weavers in this place, in purchasing wool, which it is impossible to ascertain with any degree of precision. These serges are sold not only in Edinburgh, but likewise in Stirling, Glasgow, Greenock, Perth, and Dundee. The finest kinds of serges are sometimes dressed and dyed by the traders in Stirling, and sold as coarse shalloons. A considerable quantity of the coarser sizes have of late years been purchased by saddlers as a necessary article in their business. This trade is at present in a very flourishing condition, and from this circumstance the manufactures here, are able to pay 50s. rent for an acre of land, and many of them 40s. for a cow’s grass. It were to be wished, perhaps, that a species of manufacture more valuable and more extensively useful were introduced, such as an imitation of the flannels manufactured in England. But it has always been found exceedingly difficult to give a new direction to habits long established and confirmed; and until some person possessed of an enterprising spirit together with a considerable stock shall arise, an alteration of the present mode of carrying on the manufactures here, cannot reasonably be expected.

Population.

The number of inhabitants in this parish, from a late accurate survey, is found to be 612. And of these, there are

From 10 years of age and under -165.
10 to 20 – 132
20 to 30 – 84
30 to 40 – 94
40 to 50 – 52
50 to 60 – 52
60 to 70 – 27
70 to 80 – 4
80 to 90 – 2
total 612

List of births and burials from 1720 to 1791.

The numbers of this parish have not increased in any considerable degree since the year 1760, as it appears from lists regularly made up every four or five years from that period.

Church Stipend, etc.

The parish of Alva was, long before the Reformation, in the diocese of Dunkeld, and under the ecclesiastical jurisdiction of the bishop of that see. From an extract taken from the Chartulary of Cambuskenneth, in the neighbourhood of Stirling, it appears that the church of Alva was a mensal church, as it is called, belonging to that abbacy, and that the monks performed duty there, from the want of a sufficient fund for the maintenance of a regular clergyman to reside in the parish. In the 1260, Richard, Bishop of Dunkeld, made a donation to the monks of the church of St. Mary at Cambuskenneth, of the church of Alva "with all its legal pertinents," and dispensing with their employing a vicar to officiate statedly. The following reason is then assigned ; “ virorum religiosorum abbatis et conventus de Cambuskenneth, paupertati compatientes, -- charitatis intuitu, et propter tenuitatem ecclesaiae de Alveth." By another extract from the same Chartulary, it appears that Alexander, stiled Dominus de Striveling [Stirling], Miles, made a grant of one acre of land, to God, the Virgin Mary, to St. Servanus, and to the church of St. Servanus de Alveth, describing it particularly as lying near the well of St. Servanus, " et inter ipsum sontem et ecclesiam." This charter is dated, A. D. 1276. This well is still within the limits of the minister's glebe, and although its consecrated name has been long forgotten, it continues to send forth a copious stream of the purest and sweetest water. About 20 years after the Reformation, and after Stirling, with a few parishes around it, were provided with stated pastors, the Presbytery of Stirling was erected on the eight day of August 1581*, in consequence of an order from the General Assembly, to that effect. The first minister of this parish, was Mr Robert Mainteith, who was afterwards deposed for incapacity.

Pudet hac opprobria nobis, Et dici pouisse, et non potuisse, reselli.

*Records of the Presbytery of Stirling.

From this time and downwards to the year 1632, this parish appears to have been united with the neighbouring one of Tillicoultry, the minister of Alva officiating in both; the livings of each hardly affording a decent subsistence; the stipend of Alva not exceeding 300 merks Scots, or L. 16 : 13 : 4 sterling. The fabric of the present church was built in the year 1631, by Alexander Bruce, then proprietor of Alva; who, after making a small addition to the stipend, procured a disjunction from the parish of Tillicoultry. Although the fabric of the church is still good and sound, yet it appears never to have been completely finished within; the walls and roof are not plastered, and the seats are in a very ruinous condition. The windows are too small and ill-placed. As the structure is sufficient, it might be repaired at a moderate expence; and, without any enlargement of the area, might be rendered a very commodious and elegant church. The present manse, was built in the year 1762, upon a very neat and commodious plan. In the year 1765, the present Lord Alva, then proprietor of this barony, sensible of the smallness of the living, very generously, and without any application from the incumbent, gave an augmentation in victual to the amount of L.22 sterling, at the usual conversion; by which means the stipend now consists of L. 34 sterling in money, including the allowance for communion elements, together with 40 bolls of barley, and 32 bolls of meal. But what especially deserves to be remembered by the present incumbent, to whom this augmentation was given, is, that Lord Alva, not only of his own accord resolved to give it, but actually executed a summons against himself, as sole heritor of the parish, in name of the minister without his knowledge, as the first step towards perfecting, what he had so generously resolved on. The glebe consists of nine acres, a small part of which is meadow, and which, if completely drained, might be very beneficial. Had Virgil himself visited the Ochills, and composed his first pastoral on this spot, he could not have described it more graphically than he has done in the following lines;

Et tibi magna satis : quamvis lapis omnia nudus, Limofoque palus obducat pasuca junco.

Let no future possessor of this glebe dare to murmur, after what Maro has so sweetly sung!

School.

The salary of the schoolmaster is 200 merks, or L. 11 :2 :1 2/3 Sterling. This is the maximum appointed by law for the salary of a parish school. When it is considered, that by act of parliament*, the heritors and liferenters of a parish, are allowed to obtain relief for the one half of that sum from the tenants, it may be justly wondered, that so very few country parishes have availed themselves of it, and still allow their schoolmasters to be so meanly provided. To this good and wise institution of parochial schools, and to the assiduous labours of that most useful class of men, our country stands indebted for its celebrity in learning and science.

*Vide Acts W. And M Par I Sess. 6 Chap. 26

Poor.

The poor in this parish are not numerous. At present there are not more than six persons, who receive relief from the public charity. Occasional supply is at times given to others, as their necessities demand. They have hitherto been maintained by the ordinary collections, together with the interest arising from a small fund, and the common dues of the parish mort-cloths; without any assessment upon the heritor, or inhabitants. There are examples, more than one, of persons, who have declined accepting this charity, choosing rather to sustain their hardships with patience, than to receive it from the public. This serves to confirm the remark, that when the funds of public charity are increased to any great degree, there is generally less delicacy in receiving it.

Minerals.

This parish has been distinguished by the discoveries which have been made, in this part of the Ochills, of various metals, and particularly of silver. In the neighbouring parishes of Logie on the west, and Tillicoultry and Dollar on the east, veins of copper and lead have been, at different periods, wrought to a considerable extent; and though veins of these metals, and also of iron ore, have been found in the hills of Alva, yet no experiments of such consequence have been made, as to ascertain their true value. Some time between the years 1710 and 1715, Sir John Erskine, of whom mention has been already made, by means of some miners from Leadhills, discovered a very valuable vein of silver, in the glen that separates the Middle-hill from the Wood-hill. It made its first appearance in small strings of silver ore, which being followed, led to a very large mass of that precious ore; part of this had the appearance of malleable silver, and was found upon trial to be so exceedingly rich, as to produce 12 ounces of silver from 14 ounces of ore. A sum not greater than L. 40, or, at the most L. 50, had been expended when this valuable discovery was made. During the space of thirteen or fourteen weeks, it has been credibly affirmed that ore was produced to about the value of L.4000 per week, and it has been conjectured, that Sir John drew from L. 60,000 to L. 50,000, besides much ore, which was supposed to have been purloined by the workmen. when this was exhausted, the silver ore began to appear in smaller quantities; and symptoms of lead, with other metals, were discovered. The consequence of which was, that all further researches were at that time laid aside. There are still in the possession of Lord Alva, Nephew of the late Sir John Erskine, some exceedingly rich pieces of silver ore, which had been got at that time, and which evidently shew how very valuable that mass of ore must, have been*.

These have been examined by many of Lord Alva's friends, who have admired, not merely the richness of the ore, but its beauty; the pure native virgin silver being observed to adhere in slender strings to the spar, in a variety of fanciful and irregular forms.

*In the year 1767, Lord Alva, of some of the remains of that ore in his possession, caused a pair of Communion Cups to be made, for the use of the Church of Alva; on these, the following inscription is engraved. Sacris, in Ecclesia, S. Servani, apud Alveth, A.D. 1767, ex argento indigena, D.D.c.q. - Jacobus Erskine.

About the year 1759, the late Charles Erskine, Lord Justice Clerk, father of Lord Alva, having a few years before, purchased this barony from his nephew, the late Sir Henry Erkine, revived the working of the silver mines in this place. A company consisting of some gentlemen, kinsmen and friends of the family, was formed, and a moderate capital subscribed. These carried on the work, with considerable industry; they pursued the course of the vein, where the silver ore had been found, a very great way beyond the old workings, which had for many years been abandoned. Their success, it must be regretted, was not in proportion to the vigour of their exertions; for although the appearances in the vein were favourable, and small strings of metal sometimes discovered, these however were not followed by any thing of sufficient importance, to encourage them to continue their researches.

A shaft or sump, as the miners term it, was made to the depth of several fathoms, immediately below the bottom of the waste, from whence the rich mass of ore, above mentioned, had been taken, and a drift carried on, in the direction of the silver vein, upon that level; but neither did this attempt answer the expectation which had been formed of its success. To facilitate these operations however, it had been resolved, to drive a level at a considerable distance, nearer the bottom of the hill; For the purpose of draining the water from the works above. In executing this part of their scheme, they had not advanced a great way into the side of the hill, when a large mass of ore was discovered; at first, this was imagined to be silver; but upon an accurate trial, made by a gentleman, distinguished for his chemical knowledge, it was discovered to be cobalt. A very considerable quantity of this was brought out, of which a great part was used in a manufacture of porcelain, that had been erected much about that time, at Prestonpans in East-Lothian. when the cobalt is deprived of the arsenic with which it is strongly impregnated, and in other respects properly prepared, it produces a powder of a beautiful deep blue, and with this, a great variety both of useful and ornamental pieces of China and glass were coloured; which clearly shewed that the cobalt found in the mines of Alva, was in no respect inferior in quality to that procured from the mines in Saxony. In consequence of this discovery, the appearances of cobalt being now fully known, very considerable quantities of it were discovered among the heaps of rubbish, that had been taken out of the mines, at the time when they were worked by the late Sir John Erskine. This had remained undisturbed, for about fifty years; when Lord Alva caused a great part of it to be washed, after the manner practiced by miners; and obtained an additional quantity to that which had been already procured from the level. The work was carried on a great length from the place where the mass of cobalt had been found; but spar and other vein-stuff appearing, the further working of the mines in this place was totally abandoned.

During the time that these works were carried on, a very accurate survey of all the different veins of metals that had been discovered in the hills of this parish, was made by the agent for the company, who possessed a very considerable degree of skill in the practical part of mining. The several appearances and specimens of the different ores, which were found in consequence of the trials which were made in the veins; together with the precise direction which these take into the hills, with a variety of circumstances relating to them, which it would be improper to enumerate here, were all accurately taken down by their agent, in a register or journal, and which is in the possession of Mr Johnstone, the present proprietor of this barony. It is especially worthy of being remarked, that the person employed to make this survey, and to digest the observations resulting from it, was particularly distinguished for his integrity; and therefore the accounts of the mines, contained in the register now mentioned, may with safety be relied on, as just and accurate, and strictly corresponding to appearances, as he had not the smallest tendency to exaggerate his descriptions. Although an extensive knowledge of this subject is altogether disclaimed, yet there is one observation, which presents itself so frequently to any, even the most careless, inquirer, that it may be fairly hazarded: That, were new trials to be made, nearer the surface of the veins than those made formerly, there is a probability of their being more successful ; as, in some of those veins, masses of rich and beautiful spar attract the notice of the hasty traveller, and seem to invite him to examine them with some degree of attention. This is happily confirmed, by the result of those experiments, an account of which has already been given, which were undeniably more successful than any of those that since that time have been made. It appears from those registers of the mines, that there are not fewer than fourteen or fifteen veins discovered in the hills of Alva, which, from the trials made, are found to contain specimens of silver, lead, copper, iron, and cobalt.

On the south side of the water of Devon, immediately opposite to the lands of Alva, in the estate belonging to Lord Cathcart and Mr Erskine of Mar, it is well known that the finest coal in all this country is produced. It has now been worked during a long period of years, and has always been held in highest estimation, on account of its superior quality. The same seams of coal have been found on the north banks of that river, in the estate of Alva, and extend from one extremity of the parish to the other. It was worked by the late Sir John Erskine, about sixty years ago, and a considerable quantity of coal was then brought out. The pits and other vestiges of his works, are still to be seen. And so noble a spirit of enterprise did that gentleman possess, that he cut a canal, a considerable way along the banks of Devon, in order to convey his coal to the banks of the Forth, to be exported from thence to a proper market. The remains of this canal can easily be traced. More than twenty years ago, accurate surveys, of the different levels of the water of Devon, were taken as high up as the parish of Dollar, with a view to facilitate the transporting of coal, belonging to the different proprietors on the banks of the river, by means of a canal intended to have been made where it should have been requisite; as, in many places, the current of the river is so smooth and gentle, as to render one entire canal altogether unnecessary. Although this project was laid aside, yet in some future period it may perhaps be resumed. It is highly probable, that the present proprietor of this parish, will judge it proper to begin without delay to work the coal upon his estate, for this good reason, that the demand for that article is daily increasing; and there is every prospect that it will continue to increase, in consequence of the prodigious consumption of Lord Cathcart's coal, by an iron work, lately erected on that Nobleman's estate, near the banks of Devon. No part of it is now sold for the use of the country.

In a description of this kind, it would he inexcusable to omit taking notice of the beautiful plantations of trees, which surround the house of Alva; which are planted in the hedge rows of the several inclosures, and on the brow of that eminence, on which the house stands. On this, there is a small forest, consisting of many different kinds of trees, such as oaks, elm, ashes, beeches, larches, and pines of different sorts. Many of these, the oaks in particular, seem to be of considerable age. Some of the ashes too, are remarkable on account of their size; and one oak, justly claims the appellation of the “Monarch,” of this wood, not in respect of its age, but on account of the tallness and straightness of its trunk, and of the regularity with which its boughs are extended on every side. It is extremely probable, that this little forest had been at first planted by the hand of some former proprietor; but far beyond the reach of memory. Most of the trees, which surround the inclosures below the house, were planted by the late Sir John Eskine, and as is supposed, some time before the year 1720. The east and west sides of the hill, immediately above the house, were planted by Lord Alva, more than 20 years ago, to which very large additions have been made every year, by Mr Johnstone, since he became proprietor. It is computed that not less than 98 acres of this hill, are planted with trees of various sorts; and that the policy, as it is called, and the plantations around the house, extend to fifty acres. The road from the house to the church, which is little less than a measured mile, has a row of trees on every side, which renders it a very pleasant and delightful walk. It is worthy of observation, that the trees on this estate, have this remarkable property of being exceedingly clean and pure, in the skin or bark; and that few or none of those mossy excrescencies, are to be found on the bodies of the trees here, which are usually seen adhering to trees that grow in low and swampy grounds; which is an evidence not only of dry and pure atmosphere, but also of the happy quality of the soil for raising trees. ‘Tis believed, that the same observation will hold true with regard to the trees that grow on the same range of hills, having the same exposure, and very probably, the soil nearly of the same quality; while at the same time, it is but fair to remark, that few, if any, of the trees, either in the parishes on the east or west, are equal either in age or size, to the trees of this parish.

Few situations afford more ample scope for the display of elegance and taste, in the way of rural ornament, than this place presents. Nature is seen here in some of her grandest, as well as most pleasing forms; and a correct taste, by loping off some luxuriancies, and bestowing some additional touches, where these are requisite, might contribute greatly to heighten the beauty of the scenery. A rivulet of the purest water, pours along the middle of that glen where the mines were wrought; when obstructed in its course by opposing rocks, it forces its way, and falls in three beautiful cascades; where the ground is soft and flat, it forms a capacious pool; it is shaded on both its banks, with an extensive plantation of thriving timber, and forms a convenient recess for the purpose of bathing. Even Diana herself, with all her attendant nymphs, might here boldly plunge into the cool " "translucent wave,” and not dread the unhallowed eye of any lavage or licentious intruder.

In the east end of the church, a monument, plain, and without ornament, is erected by Lord Alva, in memory of his father, late Lord Justice Clerk. An epitaph is inscribed on a marble plate, which, for classic elegance, and purity of stile, is surpassed perhaps by few modern compositions of that kind.