Laid out below is a copy of the Statistical Account of Scotland entry for Tillicoultry parish, published in 1795.
The Statistical Account of Scotland, Vol 15 (1795)
NUMBER XII.
PARISH of TILLICOULTRY.
(County of Clackmannan, Presbytery of Dunblane, Synod of Perth and Stirling)
By the Rev. Mr. William Osburn, Minister.
Etymology of the Name.
The origin of the name is generally supposed to be Gaelic, and Tillicoultry compounded of the three words, Tullich, cut and tir. These words signify literally, the mount or hill at the back of the country, and seem to refer to the Kirk-hill, and the Cuninghar; a rising ground, which begins near the house of Tillicoultry and the old kirk, and runs in a S. E. direction till it reaches the Dovan. This rising ground has a strikingly romantic appearance, as one approaches it, either from the East or the West. And as it intersects a beautiful plain, which begins at the Abbey-Craig near Stirling, and extends to Vicar's Bridge, it has justly been distinguished as the termination of the plain, or strath. But the author of this account hopes he will not be accused of affectation, if he ventures to give a Latin derivation, and considers Tillicoultry as compounded either of Tellus Culta, or Tellus Cultorum Dei. If the first be adopted, we may suppose the name took its rise, from the place having been once in a high state of cultivation, probably from the introduction of the Italian agriculture. But if the second, it may denote the residence of some of the Culdees, or a place appropriated to the worship of God, either by the Culdees or the Druids. For on the fourth end of the Cuninghar, the rude remains of a Druidical circle are still to be seen, and on the north-east extremity of the rising ground, the old church was situated. The writer hereof is no admirer of the Gaelic; but as Gaelic derivations are at present fashionable, and as every place in this country is supposed, by our learned antiquarians, to have an old Gaelic name, he is afraid little attention will be paid to these Latin etymologies. It must, however, be allowed, that Tillicoultry is no great corruption of Tellus Culta, or of Tellus Cultorum Dei.
Situation.
Tillicoultry is an inland county parish and presents little uncommon or splendid for description. It comprehends a considerable part of the Ochils, where these hills are highest; but the principal part of the parish lies at the foot of the hills, verging towards the south. The river Dovan washes its banks on the north.
Appearance, Form etc.
The appearance of the parish, whether we view the hills or the plain, is beautiful and pleasant. A great part of the low ground is enclosed, and affords a variety of agreeable landscapes, and the beauty of the scene is much encreased by the windings of the Dovan, which in miniature resemble there of the Forth. The shape of the whole parish is a rhomboid or an oblong, which has the two longest sides on the E. in W. each measuring almost 6 English miles. The S. side of the oblong measures near 2 1/2 miles, and the N. side one mile. The low grounds taken alone form also an oblong, the length of the sides from E. to W. being rather more than 2 1/4 miles, and the breadth from S. to N. About 1 1/2 mile.
Extent and Elevation.
Tillicoultry consists of more than 6000 Scotch acres, of which quantity, 4000 are in the Ochils, and the remaining 2000 acres from the low arable ground at the foot of the hills, and to the south of the bank dykes. About 1100 or 1200 acres of arable land, by far the best and most valuable in the parish, lie between the bank dykes, at the foot of the hills, and the lowest part of the banks of Balharty and Coalsnaughton, south of the Dovan, and about 800 or 900 acres lie south of the river, from the foot of the banks. The hills, according to an actual survey, exclusive of the Mill-Glen farm, contain 2902 acres. The elevation of the ground, on the north banks of the Dovan; at the bridge, is not more than 20 feet, or at most 30 feet above the level of the Forth, at spring tides; and the S. W. corner of Tillicoultry, which approaches nearest to that river, is distant from it about 3 miles. The ground at Coalsnaughton is near 300 feet above the Dovan; and at Balharty it is about 300 feet.
Soil and Surface.
The soil is in general dry-field, rich in quality. When properly taken care of, it bears excellent crops, both of corn and hay, and gratefully repays the labour of the husbandmen. At the foot of the hills, the soil is a fine quick loam, but not very deep. The crofts are, in many places, covered with stones almost innumerable, smooth in their surface, and in general twice as large as a man's fist. They appear to be natural to the soil, and not brought thither by any inundation; but many entertain a different opinion. Some farmers think them an advantage to the crops, as in hot dry summers they keep the ground moist and cool, and in winter warm. Vast quantities have been gathered, which, in labouring, proves a great ease to both to the plough and the ploughman. The haughs, near the Dovan, present a deep loam mixed with sand, and the soil is very different from that of the crofts. The farm of Gutters is in part clay and bears fine crops of wheat as well as other grains. The lands south of the Dovan are much inferior to those of the north side. In some places, the soil is a clay, of a cold nature; in others it is a light loam, mixed with sand and gravel, on a till bottom, and in others it is a deep rich loam. A considerable part of the ground is covered with heath, and would not be easily improved, either for tillage or pasture. Perhaps the best improvement would be, to enclose the moors, and to plant them with Scotch firs, larches, and other forest trees.
Agriculture.
In the county of Clackmannan, agricultural improvements are much attended to, and have been brought to great perfection. Richer crops of wheat, barley, or hay are seldom to be met with; and the ploughs used, and the mode of ploughing, are nowhere surpassed. A plough and ploughman were sent this summer from Clackmannanshire to Windsor, to give a proper specimen of ploughing on his Majesty's farm.
Crops and Multures etc.
The farmers in Tillicoultry do not pretend to take any lead in agricultural improvement. They profit, however, by the observations and the practice of others. Two horse ploughs are getting into general use; which are a great improvement in husbandry. The crops principally attended to, are oats and barley. Wheat is too much neglected, except by Mr Johnston, and even pease and beans. Crops of turnips are seldom to be met with, and cabbages are never raised in our fields. It is difficult to ascertain the rent and produce of the land per acre. The farms are commonly let at a certain rent in cumulo, and the farmers, not knowing the measure of their fields, seldom pay attention to the produce of particular acres. The result of many enquiries is that an acre of the best land, well manured, will produce from 7 to 10 bolls of oats, each boll weighing 14 or 15 stone, yielding about a boll of meal. The oats generally produce 14 pecks of meal, besides paying the multure, and all other mill-dues. The multure is no less than the 13th peck. An acre of the same land will yield from 7 to ll bolls of barley, each weighing about 18 or 20 stone. At an average, however, an acre will not yield above 6 or 7 bolls, whether of barley or oats. Our dry-field barley is remarkably good, being very thin in the rind; and is reckoned, by maltmen and distillers; equal to any raised in the Carse. A good deal of wheat has of late been sown in the farm of Gutters, and an acre commonly produces from 8 to 10 bolls. Forty bolls of potatoes have been raised on an acre, and one farmer in particular had 18 bolls on the 4th of an acre. The writer of this account had access to see a remarkable crop of potatoes, raised in Mr Barclay's Garden, the produce being no less than 105 pecks, or 6 bolls and 9 pecks, railed from one peck planted.
Farms, Rents, Pasture, Stock etc.
The farms are in general small, and there are only 5 tenants whose rent exceeds 50 L. Sterling per annum. A great part of the parish is inclosed, and laid down in grass, and is let annually for summer grazing. The rent of farms fluctuates, but grass parks commonly let well. * The gross rental of the parish is above l700 L. Sterling, and the valuation is rated, in the old cess books of the county, at 3389 L. 5s. 10d. Scotch. There are in Tillicoultry employed in ploughing, carting, and other country work:
Horses - 116
Ploughs - 36
Carts - 89
Milk Cows, - 132
Cottagers ditto - 63
Hill Farms, Sheep and Wool.
The hills have a verdant and beautiful appearance. They afford excellent pasture for sheep, and are divided into 5 farms. They will maintain about 3500 sheep; and, at an average, an acre will not only maintain, but fodder one sheep. The pasture is grass, interspersed with heath, bent and ling. The heath is short and wearing out. The Mill-Glen and Fore-hill farms are inferior to none in the Ochils, for producing excellent mutton and fine wool. The wood of these farms is much superior to that of Bruich and the back hills, as the pasture is naturally much finer. The farms are commonly supplied from Tweeddale with young sheep of the black-faced kind: the farmers sometimes breed young sheep, which, on the whole, they find better, stronger and more profitable, than those from Tweeddale. But as the hills are stormy, they cannot keep the lambs in winter. All the Mill Glen farm is good pasture, but in the rest of the hills, there are near 400 acres of little or no value, they are covered with channel and moss. The very best white fleeces yield about 4 lib. of wool, valued at 10d. per pound; and the best smeared fleeces 6 lib. at 5d. or 6d. The average weight of a white fleece in about; 2 1/2 lib. and of a smeared one, 4 lib. The whole of what was formerly a common ** is now the property of Mr Bruce, except Bruich, which belongs to Mr Tait, and as much as will maintain 48 sheep.
* For 15 years past, almost all the farms, which have been let, have been taken by strangers from other parishes in the neighbourhood, and who are seceders. If the present system prevails for another 15 years, the greatest part, if not the whole of the parish, will be possessed by persons not belonging to the established church. It is but doing justice to a worthy man, (whose sweetness of temper, benevolence of heart, and gentlemanly behaviour, will be remembered with pleasure, at least while the present generation lasts,) to mention, that Mr Barclay Maitland improved and beautified the parish in a high degree, by his numerous inclosures and plantations. His taste and attention every where appear. Mr Tait also merits praise for his improvements on the lands of Harvieston, which he has wholly enclosed. He has carried on his improvements, for many years, with much spirit and judgement, and, it is presumed, with great advantage to himself. His uniform practice has been to fallow his fields, and after manuring them well with dung and lime, to sow them with barley and grass seeds. One of his inclosures, which contains 5 and a half Scotch acres, has been let this season for grazing, at 4 guineas per acre, the rent being 23 L. 2s. Sterling.
** When Lord Colvil feued the estate, he gave his vassals a right of pasturing sheep and other cattle on the hills. Some of them had a limited number of sheep assigned them, and others had an unlimited number. In the year 1769, Mr Barclay Maitland commenced a process against the feuers, for a division of the common hill, which contained about 300 acres. The process was withdrawn from the court of session in 1774, and referred to arbiters, and all the feuers disposed of their property for low ground, or a diminution in their feu-duty. The Mill-Glen was no part of the common hill.
Hills and Minerals.
Bencleuch, the property of Mr Johnston, is the highest in the Ochils, and is 2300 feet above the level of the Forth at Alloa. The Ochils present a considerable variety of strata. The summits of the central parts, particularly Bencleugh, are composed of granites, both red and grey. Many varieties of these are extremely beautiful, and contain large distinct crystals of black Schort. The next chain, of which the King's Seat is the highest, and belongs to that class called secondary mountains, consists of strata of Agrillaceous Schistus. Below this, in various parts, are found craigs or rocks of Basaltes, or whinstone. The Castle Craig is of this sort, and is peculiarly interesting to the naturalist, as it is in part composed of nodules of whin-stone, exhibiting concentric crusts of decomposed basaltes, like the coats of an onion, surrounding a harder nucleus. Garnets are not uncommon in the micaceous Schistus, which forms the shade between the granitical and agrillaecous Shistus. There are many veins of copper in the hills. * Iron-stone, of an exceeding good quality, has been found in many different places. Some veins in Watty-Glen are as rich as any discovered in Scotland. The Dovan Company have a lease of the iron-stone belonging to Mr Bruce, and have employed, during the greatest part of this year, 64 miners and 10 women bearers. At an average, each miner gains 1s. 6d. per day, and a bearer 8d. A great many strings, or veins of rich iron ore of the kidney kind, have been discovered in the hills, equal in quality to any discovered in this country, and by no means inferior to what is brought from England. Some small trials have been made with one of the veins, and it is to be regretted that they are discontinued. Besides copper, there is a great appearance, in the hills, of different minerals, such as silver, lead, cobalt antimony, sulphur, and arsenic, but no proper trials have yet been made. A small edge stratum of dark blue clay, 2 1/2 feet thick, was lately found, which, it is thought, will prove exceeding good for building furnaces, and making fire bricks. There is plenty of free-stone of a good quality for building; and stones have been cut in the quarries from 8 to 10 feet in length.
* Some of these were wrought near 50 years ago, to a very considerable extent in the Mill-Glen. Four different kinds of copper ore were discovered, the thickest vein of which was about 18 inches. The ore, when washed and dressed, was valued at 50 L. Sterling per ton. A Company of gentlemen at London were the tacksmen, and for several years employed about 50 men. After a very great sum of money was expended, the works were abandoned, as unable to defray the expence.
Coal.
The whole parish, south of the hills, abounds with coal, which is the property of Mr Bruce, except in Mr Johnston's estate. The coal has not been wrought to any great extent, unless where it is drained by the present level. There are 4 different seams of coal which the level drains. The first is a mixed cherry coal, 3 feet thick, and 12 fathoms from the surface. The 2nd is a rough, soft coal of an excellent quality, 6 feet thick, and 15 fathoms deep. The 3rd is a remarkably good clean splint, 2 1/2 feet thick, and 20 fathoms deep. And the 4th, which is reckoned the principal seam, is about 5 feet thick, and lies at the depth of 30 fathoms. It is a hard durable splint well adapted for exportation and the foreign market, particularly Holland. Only the 2nd and fourth seams have been wrought; * the roofs are all good, except that on the 2nd seam, where it runs towards the crop. But it is very valuable, as it contains balls of iron-stone in the roof, of an exceeding good quality. Eighty acres of the 2nd seam, and 20 of the fourth, may still be wrought by the level; but by erecting a steam engine, an immense quantity may be gained. The Devon company have been tacksmen of the coal for more than a year and a half, but have wrought none, except a very small quantity for land sale. The design of taking a coal, without working it, is incomprehensible. While coals remain under ground, they are of no value, either to the proprietor or the tacksmen.
* Twenty pickmen used to be employed in the coal-work; and about 3000 chalders of great coal were exported annually from the harbour of Alloa; but for 4 years past, the working of the coal has been discontinued. There is no doubt, however, but that in process in time, the coal will be a most profitable concern, as there are inexhaustible fields of it to be found.
Gate Mail.
The great coal, when led to the shore of Alloa for exportation, pays a tax of fourpence Sterling per chalder to the family of Mar, called Gate Mail. It was originally demanded, for the liberty of exporting the coal from the Pow of Alloa, and because the road leading through the estate to the harbour was a private one, though used by the public. This road is repaired by Mr Erskine at a considerable annual expence; at the same time it seems extraordinary, that there is not a public road leading from Tillicoultry to a public harbour, and to a market town, in which a custom-house is established by authority.
River, Floods, Fish, Pearls, Swans, etc.
The Devon is a beautiful river, but not navigable. After running in the Ochils about 8 miles in an easterly direction from its source, it makes a wide circuit round Muckart. Then taking at westerly course at the Crook, and forming the romantic fall at the Caldron Lin, it divides the arable land of Tillicoultry, into two almost equal parts. The valley, through which it passes, is distinguished by Newte in his Tour, as being one of the most pleasant places, or, as he expresses it, the Tempe of Scotland. The Devon frequently swells with rain, and overflows its banks *. It abounds with excellent trout and parr, which afford much amusement to the angler. In the deep pools, pikes and eels are found. Salmon come from the Forth in great numbers to spawn; and we have plenty of delicious sea trouts, both white and grey, in the harvest and spring. In some places, the banks of the Devon Present singular concretions of hardened clay, in a great variety of fantastic shapes. Pearls of a small size have been found in the bed of the river; and, in very severe winters, swans have been known to resort to its banks.
* A very remarkable and uncommon flood happened in September 1785, which carried away a prodigious quantity of corn, broke down a stone bridge at the rack mill in Dollar, and occasioned other very extraordinary damage. The river rose in 4 or 5 hours more than 13 feet above its usual height, at Tillicoultry bridge. A woman, who was assisting a farmer in removing his corns, on the south side, was forced away by the rapidity and violence of the stream and brought in safety to the opposite bank. Her clothes had made her float on the surface of the water, though she was carried down about a quarter of a mile.
Rivulets and Burn Trouts, etc.
The hill burns, or rivulets, abound with Trouts of a very delicious quality and flavour, and are taken in great numbers after rain. None were ever discovered in the Glooming-side Burn, though it has plenty of water, and remarkably fine streams and pools. Trouts have even been put into it, but without the desired effect. This is supposed to arise from some bed of sulphur, or other mineral hurtful to fish, over which the burn passes.
Birds and Quadrupeds.
The birds are the same as in the neighbourhood, and it is needless to specify them, as they are enumerated in the statistical account of Alloa. Till of late, the bullfinch was a stranger here, but he is now frequently to be met with. The woodlark ought to be particularly mentioned, as one of our sweetest Warblers. He begins to sing early in the spring and continues till late in harvest. Like the nightingale, he is frequently heard singing in the most melodious, enchanting manner, in the clear, still summer evenings. On these occasions, he commonly prolongs his song till midnight, and sometimes till the morning. For two or three years we were visited with a magpie, which was not variegated with black and while plumage, but was entirely white – "Rara avis in terris". The other magpies associated with him, and did not consider him in any degree as strange. In the hills there are muir-fowls, plovers and dotterels. The muir-fowls are not so frequent as formerly, as the heath is wearing out, and in consequence of this the shelter is not so good. The birds of passage are swallows, cuckoos, fieldfares and woodcocks; and we are also visited at times with herons, ducks, and sea gulls. Eagles are sometimes seen on the hills. The wild quadrupeds are, hares, rabbits, foxes, hedge-hogs, weasels, polecats, badgers and otters. The skin of the otter is valuable as a fur and fetches a good price.
Orchards and Plantations.
There are two small orchards, planted chiefly with apple trees, which contain about six acres, and, some years, bear considerable quantities of fruit. Above 100 acres are planted with forest trees, and many of the inclosures are surrounded with single rows of planting. All kinds of forest trees thrive well, particularly oaks, elms, ashes, beeches, planes, and Scotch firs *.
* About 60 years ago, the common broom grew so tall and luxuriant near the manse, that the crows and magpies built their nests in the branches.
Climate.
The air is healthy, dry, and warm, subject neither to fogs nor damps. Snow does not lie long on the low ground, particularly between the Devon and the hills, which is probably owing to the natural warmth of the air or soil. The healthiness of the two villages, at the foot of the hills, is undoubtedly much increased, by their being well supplied with plenty of excellent water.
Diseases.
There are no diseases any way peculiar to Tillicoultry, * or that can he said to be prevalent. Epidemic diseases, such as fevers, fluxes, the small-pox, the measles, and the chincough attack us at times, but not more frequently than they do others. Rheumatisms are not uncommon, as the people are much exposed to rain and cold, in following their employments in the fields. ** Within these 25 years, a great many young persons have died of consumptions, but the author is not able, either to ascertain the number, or point out the causes. Slow fevers some times are prevalent. And people have been known to recover, after remaining in them 30, or even 40 days. The ague used to be frequent, but it is now almost unknown. This happy change is perhaps owing to the lands being better drained than formerly, or to the houses being kept more cleanly, warm, and dry. The dysentery was unknown here for many years. It has, however, appeared of late three different times, and carried off a good many persons, chiefly women. As this alarming malady always broke out in the end of harvest, some have been apt to imagine, that, if it was not caught by infection, it arose from the colds and damps to which the people were exposed in reaping, or to a frequent use of potatoes not brought to a proper state of maturity. The people have in general an aversion to inoculation for the small-pox, yet this prejudice is beginning to wear away. ***
*The last time the plague was in Scotland, it did not reach Tillicoultry, though a good persons died of it at Alva. One man however having died suddenly in the wester town, the people were afraid to touch the corpse, or even to enter the house. It was pulled down, and the small eminence, which it occasioned, was called Botchy Cairn.
** It is worth mentioning that one William Hunter, a collier, was cured in the year 1758, of an inveterate rheumatism or gout, by drinking freely of new ale, full of barm or yeast. The poor man had been confined to his bed for a year and a half, having almost entirely lost the use of his limbs. On the evening of Handsel Monday, as it is called, (i.e. The first Monday of the New Year, O.S.) some of his neighbours came to make merry with him. Though he could not rise, yet he always took his share of the ale, as it passed round the company, and, in the end, became much intoxicated. The consequence was, that he had the use of his limbs the next morning and was able to walk about. He lived more than 20 years after this, and never had he the smallest return of his old complaint.
*** Many children took the small pox, last year, in the natural way, only one of whom died, being a sickly child. Were the small pox to be always equally favourable, inoculation would fall into disuse. The author has some times remarked, that when the same diseases, such as dysenteries, fevers, and the small pox, have prevailed in Alva and Tillicoultry, more in proportion have died in Alva than here. This was probably occasioned by the houses being more crowded together in the one place than the other, and the air being more confined, and the infection more liable to spread.
Population.
Tillicoultry is a small parish, yet pretty populous for its size.
Population table of the parish of Tillicoultry.
For these 19 years past, the annual average number of souls has been – 874
The highest real number of any year during that period was – 919
And the lowest, - 829
Difference, - 90
In the year 1789, the number of souls was – 903
Of these there belonged to the Established Church, - 742
And to the secession, - 161
The following lists were taken in January 1792, and shew the numbers, ages, conditions, and employments of the inhabitants at that time.
Numbers, sexes and ages,
Total number of souls, - 853
Families, – 212
Males, - 373
Females, - 480
Majority of females, - 107
No of persons under 10 years of age, - 238
Between 10 and 20 – 163
Between 20 and 50 – 301
Between 50 and 70 – 124
Between 70 and 85 – 27
Conditions, Country, Religion, etc.
No of married persons, - 278
Widowers, - 9
Widows, - 54
Bachelors who keep house, - 11
Persons residing but not born in Tillicoultry – 200
Born abroad, - 3
Heritors, - 10
Clergymen, - 1
School-masters – 1
Communicants of the Establishment, - 359
Ditto of the secession, - 97
Episcopalians – 2
Cameronians – 1
Occupations.
No. of Farmers – 34
Weavers – 21
Wrights – 6
Masons – 7
Smiths – 3
Shoe-makers – 3
Tailors – 8
Miners – 4
Labourers – 51
Gardeners – 1
Millers – 1
Dancing Masters – 1
Male house servants – 1
Female house servants – 12
Male labouring servants – 25
Female labouring servants – 12
Annual Averages for 21 years.
No. of marriages *- 7
Baptisms for ditto – 30
Burials for ditto * – 18
Males born for ditto -15 2/3
Females born for ditto - 14
Persons in each family, - 4
Ditto in each Farmer's family – 5
Proportions.
Of males to females, nearly as 3 to 4
Of married men and widowers, to bachelors who keep house, about 13 to 1
Of widowers to widows 1 to 6
Of males born to females 20 1/2 to 19 or about 13 to 12
Total number of males born during the last 21 years, 329
Ditto of females born within that period 304
Majority of males born, 25
Annual average of more males than females, 1 to 1 and a fifth.
* For 12 months preceding November 1789, there were only two grown up persons buried in the church yards of Tillicoultry; and for 12 months preceding June of the present year 1793; there have been neither marriages nor proclamations.
Increase.
No. of souls in 1755 – 787
In 1782 – 853 – increase - 96
In 1793 – 909 – increase – 56
Total increase in 38 years – 152
Causes of the Increase.
By comparing Dr Webster's list with the number of inhabitants during the two last years, there is an evident increase. It is perhaps owing to the establishment of the Devon Company in the neighbourhood of, and the working of iron-stone in Tillicoultry, that the number of the inhabitants has so greatly encreased since the beginning of the year 1792. It is somewhat remarkable, that when the lists were taken in January 1792, all the masons, miners, and labourers were employed, but there were scarcely any labourers employed in the parish.
Prolific Mothers.
There are at present living in Tillicoultry eleven married women, who have been delivered of twin children. One of them has had twins two different times, and another, in the year 1765, about three years before the birth of her twins, brought forth three children at one birth, all boys and of a good size. Two of the children died in the first month, and the third, a healthy child, died of the small pox when two years old. But what is still more uncommon, in the year 1752, Katherine Hunter, the wife of George Sharp a labourer, brought forth four children at one birth, two males and two females. They were all baptized but being small and weakly; none of them lived above three weeks.
Villages and Houses.
Tillicoultry contains three villages, Westertown, Earlstown and Coalsnaughton, and all the inhabitants live in these except 36 families. Of these families only three reside in the Ochils. The houses consist of nothing but the ground floor, except 8, of which, 5 houses have only one story raised above the ground floor, two have 2 stories, and one has three stories, and there are only three houses, the manse included, which are subject to the duty on window lights.
Manufactures.
Tillicoultry has been long famous for weaving a course woollen cloth, called Tillicoultry Serge. It is a species of shalloon, having worsted warp and yarn waft, and is reported to have been wrought here, as early as the reign of Mary Queen of Scots. The average price is 1s. Sterling per yard. Though the manufacture is now, in a great measure, left us and gone to Alva, (like the arts and sciences, from east to west,) yet all the cloth of this kind is sold in the markets under the name of Tillicoultry Serge. It is much to be regretted, that more attention is not paid to this manufacture in the place where it was invented, or at least brought to the greatest perfection. About 50 years ago, a serge web from Alva would not sell in the market, while one from Tillicoultry remained unsold. But this is by no means the case at present. The author of this account can give no precise statement of the quality of serge wrought here, as the stamp master keeps no list. He supposes, however, that he stamps annually 7000 ells of serge, and an equal quantity of plaiding. Some of the weavers are now employed in making muslins, but as this branch is still in its infancy, it is impossible to say with what advantage it may be attended.
Prices of Labour and Provisions.
The prices of labour, and of many of the necessaries of life, have risen much, and are still rising. It may be said to be nearly double of what it was 50 years ago. For example, the wages of a tailor per day, besides his diet, was 4d. Sterling, now they are 8d; of a day labourer, 5d. or 6d. now 10d. Or 1s.; of a mason, 1s. now 1s. 6d. And 1s 8d. Or 2s.; of a labouring servant per annum, 3 L. now from 6L. To 10 L. The price of a fowl was 5d. now it is ls. and sometimes more; of a pound of butter, 5d., now 9d. or l0d. and of a pound of cheese, 2d. now 4d.
Roads.
The roads along the hill foot have a gravel bottom, and are tolerably good, and likewise the road which leads from the hill foot to Coalsnaughton by the bridge. But the fourth road, which comprehends a space of more than 2 English miles, is in a wretched state, having been much neglected of late years, and the greatest part of it never having been properly made, at least to the eastward of Coalsnaughton.
Church.
The patron and superior of Tillicoultry, is James Bruce, Esq. at present a minor, and in ensign in the army. He is also titular of the teinds, and all the heritors and feuers hold of him. * The present minister ** is a bachelor. *** The manse was built in 1766, and is the second in the same place, since the year 1730. The new church is situated near the manse, almost equi-distant from the three villages, and was built in 1773. It is a small, neat building, well lighted, but not very commodiously seated. There are two church-yards, one where the old church was situated, **** and the other at the new church. The old manse has long been converted into a stable, and the old glebe is an orchard. The stipend consists of 120L. Scotch, including communion-clement money, 34 bolls of oats, 24 bolls of barley, and 6 bolls of meal. It commenced in the year 1648, and since that time there has been no augmentation. The minister has the privilege of getting his coals for paying the collier the price of working, and he has also property in the hills, for maintaining 7 or 8 sheep. The glebe was exchanged in the year 1730, when the manse was removed to its present situation. It lies in 4 different pieces, and ought to consist of 13 acres.
* His immediate ancestors were the late proprietors of Kinross. He is a descendent of the celebrated Architect, Sir William Bruce. It is supposed by Pinkerton, with a great degree of probability, in his collection of ancient Scottish poems, that Sir John Bruce of Kinross was the author of the well-known and much esteemed poem, Hardyknute, which has been commonly ascribed to Mrs Wardlaw. It is probable, also, that Sir John was the author of the Vision, and some other excellent Scottish poems.
** The names of his predecessors in office, as far as they are known, and the dates of their ordinations, are subjoined.
*** It may be accounted a singular fact, that none of the ministers of Tillicoultry have been married, since the Revolution 1685, except Mr Taylor.
**** The old church and manse were situated near the house of Tillicoultry. The church belonged to the Abbey of Cambuskenneth, having been granted to it by King Malcolm, together with the tythes and pertinents. But after the reformation, the family of Marr became heritable proprietors of the church, parsonage, vicarage, and 10 acres of glebe. And as the abbot and convent of Cambuskenneth had set the tiends in tack to the Colvills of Culross, the proprietors of Tillicoultry, John, Earlo of Marr, May 30th 1628, ratified the tacks, and also the feu charters, and investment of the glebe, and granted procuratory for resigning the same into the hands of his Majesty, in favour of James, Lord Colvil, and his son.
Ministers of Tillicoultry for the last 146 years.
| Name | Date of Admission | Time of Incumbency | |||
| Months | Years | Years | Months | Days | |
|
Mr Andrew Rhynd (The precise date of his admission, uncertain) |
1648 | about 21 | 0 | 0 | |
| Mr John Forest, ordained | 30th October | 1669 | 6 | 4 | 0 |
| Mr Robert Keith | 27th February | 1676 | 16 | 1 | 15 |
| Mr Robert Gourlay | 13th April | 1692 | 22 | 2 | 22 |
| Mr John Taylor | 7th July | 1714 | 13 | 6 | 15 |
| Mr Robert Duncan # | 25th January | 1728 | 2 | 4 | 0 |
| Mr Alexander Steedman | 27th May | 1731 | 34 | 4 | 0 |
| Mr James Gourlay | 25th September | 1765 | 8 | 5 | 0 |
| Mr William Osborn | 24th February | 1774 | 20 | 0 | 8 |
| 145 | 4 | 0 |
# Mr Duncan's Lectures on the Epistle to the Hebrews were published after his death, and are much esteemed for their piety, orthodoxy and learning.
School.
There is a parochial Schoolmaster, whose salary is 100 L. Scotch. He has also a dwelling house and garden. His annual income, including salary, and all emoluments, both as School-master and session clerk, is extremely small, and seldom exceeds 20 L. Sterling. The school is kept in the Westertown, which is by no means centrical or convenient for the rest of the parish. The school wages are low, and English, writing, and arithmetick are taught for 2s. Per quarter, English alone being only 1s. 3d.
Poor.
The poor are maintained without any assessment, and there are no beggars. The capital of the poor's money is 212 L. Sterling, and the annual average collection at the church door, has been about 12 guineas, for 18 years past. The interest of the capital, together with the collections, and the profits arising from the mort cloths, proclamations of marriages, and incidental fines, constitute the funds by which the poor are maintained. The number of persons at present statedly supplied from the public charity is 7. But, besides these, the kirk session occasionally assists a great many more, * by giving them money, buying cloths, paying their house rents and school fees for their children. Till within these 4 years, interest at 5 per cent. has been received for the poor's money, but the rate at present is only 4 per cent. The annual average of the mortcloth money is 2L. 4S. Sterling; of the proclamations, 14s 10d.; of incidental fines, 13s 6d.; of persons occasionally assisted, 11s; and of children whose school wages are paid, 5s 6d.; The lowest stated weekly allowance is 6d, and the highest is from 1s. to 15d.
* It is said that about 40 or 50 years ago, people were very shy in receiving money from the poor's funds, but this delicacy seems now to have entirely vanished.
Proprietors.
Besides Mr Bruce, there are another 9 heritors, namely, Lord Cathcart, John Johnston, Esq, of Alva, John Tait, Esq; of Harvieston, John Harrower, John Paton, Hugh Hamilton, Marion Drysdale, James Ure, and Robert May. All the heritors have houses in Tillicoultry, and reside in them, except Lord Cathcart and Mr Johnston, who have splendid seats in the neighbourhood.
State of Property.
The estate of Tillicoultry has been in the possession of 7 different families since the commencement of the last century, and has been 6 times sold. * The advance of the price, at the two last sales, deserves to be noticed; the price paid by Lord Tillicoultry being 3,494 L. Sterling; by Mr Barclay Maitland 15,000 L. and by Mr Bruce, 24,000 L. Before the last sale, a part of the estate was sold to Mr Johnston of Alva; but the feus, ** which Mr Barclay purchased at different times, were fully equivalent to this part. This estate, which, for a century and a half, has been always floating in the market, and has so frequently changed its proprietors, is now strictly entailed, and will remain in Mr Bruce's family, the entail of the estate of Kinross having been transferred by act of Parliament to Tillicoultry. The number of the old feus, or parts, was 40, but they are now mostly bought up, and again united with the estate, or in the possession of Mr Tait. The lands of Killtown, where Tillicoultry house is situated, and the lands of Colerstown or Collintown, belonging to Mr Johnston, were not fued. It is difficult to ascertain the quantity of land belonging to each of the feus, as more or less seems to have been given, according to the quality and value of the soil. One original 40th part at Drimmy contains at present, nearly as much arable land as a 40th part and a half at Ellertown, and near as much as two 40th parts at Cairnstown. *** Tillicoultry pays an annual feu-duty of 7 L. 6s. Sterling, and 166 bolls of salt, called King's malt. This is a part of the Lordship of Stirling, having been originally paid at the castle of Stirling, for the use of the King's family, but was transferred at an early period, to the Earl of Marr, as a security for some money lent to the Crown.
* It came into the possession of the ancestors of Lard Colvil of Culross, in the reign of James III. Anno 1483, and continued in that family till the year 1634, when it was sold to William Alexander of Menstry, a Poet of great genius, and afterwards created Earl of Stirling. Several of his poems are printed in Drummond of Hawthornden's collection, and his Parensis, or exhortation on government, which is dedicated to Prince Henry. Son of King James VI. Does great honour, both to the prince and the peer. The estate was next purchased by Sir Alexander Rollo of Duncrub, in the year 1644; by Mr John Nicholson of Carnock in Stirling-shire, in 1659; by Lord Tillicoultry, one of the senators of the college of justice, and a baronet, in 1701; by the Hon. Charles Barclay Maitland, of the family of Lauderdale, in 1756; and by James Bruce, Esq; of Kinross, in 1780.
** Lord Colvil feued the greatest part of his estate to tenants, whom he distinguishes in his charters, as auld, kindly, native tenants, and reserved to himself a certain annual feu-duty, which appears to have been the old rent.
*** It appears from the meal paid as feu duty by the feuars of Cairnstown, and the money paid by the other feuars, that a boll of meal, and 3s 4d. Sterling, were considered as being of equal value, in the conclusion of the 16th, and beginning of the 17th centuries.
Ancient Charter.
Between 500 and 600 years ago, Tillicoultry belonged to the family of Marr; and an original charter, granted by King Alexander III. of Scotland, in the 14th year of his reign, is still in the possession of Mr Erskine of Marr, who has obligingly favoured the author with a copy. This charter is twice referred to by Bishop Kieth, in his history of the Bishops. It is elegantly written on parchment, with a very fair hand, and fine ink, and is in every respect a remarkable curiosity. The whole parchment is near a square of 9 1/2 inches, and the writing only measures 6 inches by 8§.
§ As this charter is no less a curiosity than many of those contained in Anderson's Diplomata Scotie, the subjoined copy will be an acceptable present to antiquarians:
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After the granting of this charter, Tillicoultry remained for a considerable period in the possession of the family of Marr; but on account of a pretended succession to Lady Isabella Douglas, Countess of Marr, was siezed by the crown, notwithstanding an express declaration and promise, by Robert III. under the Great Seal, that he would accept of no lands belonging to that lady.
Eminent men.
Lord Colvil, who was raised to the peerage by James VI. in 1609, was a man of a military genius, and served with much reputation, in the wars under Henry the IV. of France. Returning to Scotland, loaded with honours, he resided at Tillicoultry, and in his old age, revisited the French court. As he appeared in the old-fashioned military dress, which he had formerly worn in the wars, the courtiers were all amazed when he entered the royal presence. But no sooner did Henry observe the old warrior, than he clasped him in his arms, and embraced him with the greatest affection, to the utter astonishment of all present. After his return, Lord Colvil spent much of his time at Tillicoultry, and was particularly fond of walking on a beautiful terrace, at the north end of the Kirk-hill, and of reposing himself under a thorn tree, the venerable trunk of which still remains. It unfortunately happened, that standing one day on a stone, and looking up to the thorn tree, describing his battles, he fell down the sloping bank of the terrace, and, it is said, was killed on the spot, in the year 1620. It may not be improper to add, under this article, that in the popish legends, Tillicoultry is mentioned as having been visited by St. Serf of Servanus, and the scene of some of his pretended miracles. St. Serf lived in the end of the sixth century, and there is a particular account of him in Winton's Chronicle, * a manuscript in the Cottonian library **. Notwithstanding the very remote antiquity of St Serf, his memory is still, in some degree, preserved, though his name is almost entirely forgot; but be is represented, by tradition, as a holy man, who travelled about the country, with a Scape Goat ***, which was unfortunately killed. There is a heap of bones, called Cairn Cur or Gur, which seems to have been intended to perpetuate the story of the goat. The name has an evident affinity to the Latin word Caper, and to the Gaelic, Gobbur, which signifies a goat.
* Winton, the author of the chronicle, was canon regular of St. Andrews, and prior of the monastery of Loch Leven, and lived in the end of the 14th century.
* An excerpt from this chronicle was lately published by Pinkerton, in the Appendix to his collection of Scottish poems. One of the miracles reported to have been performed by St Serf, was, the raising of two young men to life, who appear to have been brothers. The account given of this in the chronicle, if not very elegant, has at least the merit of being abundantly brief:
" In Tullycoultry, til a wif "
" Two fonys be raisit frae ded to lyf "
*** In Winton's chronicle, in place of a scape goat, mention is made of a ram. The killing of the ram occasioned another miracle. The story is abundantly ludicrous, and as ludicrously related by the poetical biographer:
This holy man had a ram,
That he had fed up of a lam:
and oyfit hym til folow ay,
Quherevir he passit in his way.
A theyf this scheppe in Ackien stal,
And et hym up in pecis smalle.
Quhen Sanct Serf his ram had myst,
Quha that it stal was few that wist:
On presumption nevertheless,
He that it stal arestyt was;
And til Sanct Serf syne was he broucht.
That scheipe he said that he stal noucht,
And tharfor, for to swer an athe,
He said that he walde nocht be laythe.
But sone he worthit rede fro schayme,
The scheype that bleytyt in his wayme.
Swa was he taynetyt Schamfully;
And at Sanct Serf askyt mercy.
Antiquities.
There are few curiosities, or remains of antiquity. * The rude Druidical circle, on the south end of the Cuninghar, deserves some small notice. It is composed of granites about 5 1/2 feet long, and its diameter is near 60 feet. The spot was covered by the late proprietor, with a circular thicket of Scotch firs, and is marked by Stobie, in his splendid map of Perth and Clackmannan shires. On the Castle Craig, the foundations § of a round circular building are still visible.
* It is reported, there was a Roman station on the north end of the Cuninghar. About 50 years ago, the place was dug by order of Sir Robert Stuart, and several urns, containing human bones, were found.
§ Between these and the hills, there has been a ditch by way of defence. The vulgar tradition is, that the Peychts had a strong fortification in this place, and the stones of the edifice were carried away, when the castle of Stirling was built. A large stone coffin, neatly cemented with whitish clay, was discovered about 8 years ago, in the midst of a great cairn or heap of stones in Westertown, anciently called Cairntown. It was filled with fine earth and contained two small bones.
Character, etc.
We have our good qualities as well as our bad. Publicly to expose the one might give offence and could do no good. To praise the other might appear ostentation and flattery. It is, however, but justice to mention, that the people are sober and industrious, and attached to the King and Constitution, and to the Presbyterian form of worship and Church Government. The men mostly betake themselves to country work, or to employments connected with husbandry. Few of them enlist in the army, and not many of them engage in the seafaring line. The women are thrifty and laborious, attentive to their families, and are much employed in spinning worsted and woollen yarn, particularly the latter. All ranks dress better and finer then they formerly did. And as an instance of refinement in the furniture of the houses, it may be mentioned, that in the year 1764, there were only 9 or 10 clocks in the parish, whereas, at present, there are above 60.
Disadvantages.
It is apprehended, that Tillicoultry will decrease in the number of its inhabitants, from the following causes: 1st The division of the common in the hills.: 2nd The sale of many of the feus, each of which maintained families. : 3rd The neglect of the coal; and, 4th The small attention and encouragement which in given to the wearing of Tillicoultry serge. It must be acknowledged, however, that the establishment of the Devon Company, in the immediate neighbourhood, will, perhaps, overbalance all these apparent disadvantages, though the writer of this account is by no means sanguine in his expectation of that effect.
Sources of Melioration.
The following particulars are humbly subjoined, as probable sources of improvement, and melioration: 1st, If the public school were situated more in the centre of the parish, or if a school were established at Coalsnaughton. 2nd ly, If a bridge were built over the Dovan, below the Westertown. 3rd ly, If the farmers were to fallow more of their land, and to pay more attention to sowing wheat. 4th ly, If some encouragement were given to the weaving of Tillicoultry serge. 5th ly, If the coal were to be wrought as extensively as formerly, for supplying the country and the foreign markets. 6th ly, If a waggon-way were made for carrying the coals to Alloa harbour. 7th ly, If a navigable canal were made by means of the Devon to join the Forth. 8th ly, If some public works, such as an woollen manufactory, or a cotton mill, or a printing field, were erected at the Westertown, as the situation is thought highly convenient and advantageous for such useful works. But the great sources of improvement and melioration are, honestly, industry, sobriety, and a regard to religion, without which, and the blessing of God, all human schemes will be nugatory and vain.